Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Step 1. Undo the clamps on either side of this U-Shaped hose, then remove the hose.

UHose.jpg

Step 2. Undo these 2 screws, it will allow you lift up the intake pipe giving you more room.

2nuts.jpg

Step 3. Loosen the 2 adjustable clamps on the hose connecting to the plenum, also the other small one seen in the picture.

plenum.jpg

Step 4. Disconnect the loom plug (may vary in appearance). Then just move 2 disconnected looms off to the side. You don't have to remove the 2 circled screws.

loom.jpg

Step 5. There are 8 allen screws to undo all the way along the plastic cover as circled below. Once you have removed them all you can then slide out the plastic cover.

rockercover.jpg

Step 6. Once you have removed the plastic cover you'll see the lead pictured below, with 6 looms connecting to the top of each coilpack, undo the looms that connect to the top of each coilpack. Then remove the small screws that hold the length of cable in place and remove it.

(Coil Pack Lead)

somecable.jpg

nocover.jpg

Step 7. Now, at this stage you will see the top of each coil pack, I pulled out the whole cradle and coil pack as described next but you dont have to that. You can just remove the screws that hold each coil pack in. This how to pull it all out.

Unscrew the gold/bronze bolts that hold the coil pack cradles in place. There is about 6 or 7 of them. Once they are removed you can pullout the coilpacks and cradle to see the spark plugs underneath.

(Top of Coil Packs)

noloom.jpg

(Coil Packs and Cradle)

coilpacks.jpg

Step 8. Now that you can see inside, it is recommended that you spray some compressed air inside to clear/dislodge any crap that may fall into the combustion camber once you have taken out the spark plugs. Now remove the spark plugs and put in the new ones!

Step 9. Put it all back together.

Edited by Shane
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42819-rb25det-changing-the-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

had the plugs in mine done a few weeks ago. Used NGK iridiums to suit rb25det.

Took in for a tune the other day and had problems. Apparently I should have used NGK iridiums to suit rb20det as they run cooler. She runs nicely now and the plugs are cheaper!

  • 9 months later...

anyone know if you just pull the coilpacks straight out once the two screws are removed?

seems like the pack is still attached to something underneath and i'm not game enough to put too much force into pulling it out without knowing.

had the plugs in mine done a few weeks ago. Used NGK iridiums to suit rb25det.

Took in for a tune the other day and had problems. Apparently I should have used NGK iridiums to suit rb20det as they run cooler. She runs nicely now and the plugs are cheaper!

Hey so which one should you use?

rb20 or rb25 sparks? should you also get it tuned after the installing the new sparks?

I love this tutorial.

Found it over a year ago, made it into word doco format.

Printed it off in colour and make sure it's around everytime i change em juts to be sure.

Thanks matey !

Awesome job!

Used the changing oil one for awhile but thats piiiss easy so don't need it now.

(but not easy if you've never done it before, which is where i was awhile back)

The best thing is, changin oil and spark plugs must be 80% of what a 'service' is and you never know exactly what they're doing........so get in there guys and do it yourself.

  • 4 weeks later...

Would the author of this tutorial please add:

Loosen the plugs, BUT before removing them, blow the area thoroughly clean with compressed air.

Can't believe people still pull dirty plugs and wonder why they suddenly develop a miss after dislodging crap into the combustion chamber.

Regards.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...