Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I'm looking at purchasing an R33 GTR Vspec. Car looks arnt aesthetically pleasing but great little number. Only problem I have is a weird humming/grinding sound coming from what sounds like cyl 1, the front cyl. While the car is idling you can hear the sound, but as soon as any load is on the car or you touch the throttle it disappears. Will post a video to go with, any ideas at all would be a great advantage.

trim.hmSn5q.MOV

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428258-weird-noise-r33-gtr-vspec/
Share on other sites

55k windback km? That engine bay doesn't look too flash.

The whirring noise sounds like timing belt. Either the cover is bent and rubbing on the pulley, the belt is rubbing somewhere or the belt is tensioned too tightly.

But at that price for a R33 (assuming everything else is good), I wouldn't worry too much. Just budget a replacement engine or a rebuild.

To the best of everyone's knowledge the k's are legit. Was imported, purchased and used on 5 occasions, 3 inc getting the shopping. Will be doing a more in depth look in a couple of weeks and taking a gtr owner with me, so he can let me know of anything else to look for. Will pop off some covers and have a snoop on the next visit.

It could be as easy as an accessory belt idler or accessory bearing, or as potentially sinister as a timing belt idler or even a worn harmonic balancer. Bit hard to tell with just a video though.

To the best of everyone's knowledge the k's are legit. Was imported, purchased and used on 5 occasions, 3 inc getting the shopping. Will be doing a more in depth look in a couple of weeks and taking a gtr owner with me, so he can let me know of anything else to look for. Will pop off some covers and have a snoop on the next visit.

They aren't legit, unless you mean 255,000kms.

Edited by BuuBox

55k windback km? That engine bay doesn't look too flash.

The whirring noise sounds like timing belt. Either the cover is bent and rubbing on the pulley, the belt is rubbing somewhere or the belt is tensioned too tightly.

But at that price for a R33 (assuming everything else is good), I wouldn't worry too much. Just budget a replacement engine or a rebuild.

i have to agree

the belt on my 32 was too tight and sounded very similar to this...

but judging off that clip motor doesn't look like its got 55 xxxkm i wouldn't be trusting what people have to say about the kms

The car isn't really in a local area, it's about 400km return. When I return l'll be doing a more in depth look, will do a compression test inspect the heck out of everything. In the cars defence, it was parked in an open sidded shed, out on a farm over a year ago. There is wasp nests and mouse/rat crap everywhere and urine scented interior. The video was taken after the car had been started for approximatly 5 mins. This is the first time it was started since parked in the car. I have heard from a few sources that due to it sitting so long the lifters could dry out which could have been the noise. Unfortunately after the test drive I didn't pay attention to whether the noise was still there, (shake head). Unsure at the moment of the cars history, the owner and knowledge of the vehicle wasn't there at the time, it was only his son, (there's the car, over in the shed) knew it was a gtr and black? That was really all.

Consider the expression "Dont buy other people's problems". Ignore the kms when considering it because they're regularly dodged, and there's always a story around why its so low. Buy based on condition, and by the looks of it that thing is a high kms pile of crap. So only buy if its really cheap and you want a fixer upper/something to restore. If you want something to just get in and drive, get something else.

  • 2 weeks later...

I read through this whole thread before watching the video in the OP - There's no way that car has only done 55,000km, regardless of how 'neglected' it was. I'd run in the opposite direction, unless it was sub 10k, then maybe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not that I know from experience, but in theory you'd want your gate spring to be as close to target pressure as possible, so you'd go with the higher gate spring?
    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...