Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 1992 RB20DET from a 1992 R-32, no mods that could effect boost - we made a custom intake manifold, but that was strictly for cosmetic reasons. The wastegate controller does not appear to have been tampered with. It goes right up to 11 pounds boost, but never over that.

1. What is the normal max boost pressure on this engine when completely stock?

2. What is the rated horsepower, and at what boost pressure is it measured?

I have done quite a bit of searching, can't find the answer these seemingly simple questions. Anyone here know the answers?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428395-rb20-boost-pressure/
Share on other sites

I'm not 100% sure, but from what I know, and I'm sure someone else can confirm for me, the stock RB20 wastegate actuator is 10psi and the power an rb20det makes from factory is about 165kw at the flywheel I think?

 

My stock HCR32 (auto) was on the dyno recently, 117Kw atw, 10psi tapering down to7.5

 

Wow. That's awful. When I tuned mine, it was an auto ECU but had been converted to a manual box years before. Running 14 psi on the factory tune it did ~150 rwkW (and the dyno is a pretty good one, certainly comparable to most other DDs). Boost would hold up pretty well at high revs. After the ECU was tuned and with boost turned down a little (12-13 psi) because we were at max in a few areas, it was more like 170rwkW.

The only other mods on the car were full exhaust, FMIC and metal turbo inlet.

awful????? going by this converter http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator4.php and wiki I'm down 12 HP from new :ermm:

anyways 3" turbo back goes on this weekend weather permitting and the following weekend new EV14 injectors then I'm off to the drags

Yuh, awful. Even before I put a boost controller onto my RB20 it would pretty much hold 10 psi up to high revs, and that is where most of your low reading is coming from (assuming no low reading dyno). 7.5 psi boost is soft compared to 10. And as you can see from my report above....14psi makes it a completely different thing. 150rwkW feels drastically different to 117.

Still think you're being a little harsh, 12hp below new running stock everything accept a fuel pump, the only possible issue is a slight exhaust gasket leak which will get confirmed when I put my 3" exhaust in. You don't know your compression test readings for those dyno figures? When I put my injectors in I'll do a compression test.

Thanks for the replies - that takes away the mystery somewhat. I have owned a lot of cars, but this is my first experience with a turbo. As I stated before, the purpose of the custom intake was purely cosmetic - to get rid of all the clutter on top of the motor. I already described this here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/428272-not-living-in-oz-but-one-of-the-other-colonies/

post-115519-0-85626500-1373481893_thumb.jpg

Edited by stilettoman

R33's and 34's were 7.

Yuh, awful. Even before I put a boost controller onto my RB20 it would pretty much hold 10 psi up to high revs, and that is where most of your low reading is coming from (assuming no low reading dyno). 7.5 psi boost is soft compared to 10. And as you can see from my report above....14psi makes it a completely different thing. 150rwkW feels drastically different to 117.

Stock exhaust will probably be the culprit of this. Almost everyone makes 10-11 PSI for the full range with their R32 because almost everyone has a aftermarket exhaust. The dyno wasn't particularly low reading as far as i know, 3 r33's on the day all made within 1-2kw's of 180 with only an exhaust and a front mount, and my tuned r32 with 33 turbo mad 170kw's.

Dam 33's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...