Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Wanted to know about driving the GT4 up to the snow. It's an NA skyline with the ATTESA system.

I have done some searching on the forums but haven't got much of an answer. Looks like most people don't want to take GTR's up because:

A) Expensive

B) Too powerful/wheelspin everywhere.

The GT4 is a cheaper and much, much less powered car.

Was mainly checking if the ATTESA system was useless or would be decent. Will be going to baw to work this weekend and Hotham for a week in 2 weeks.

Went up in a Rav 4 and had no problems.. I don't think it will be an issue, but yeah.. I'm sure someones done it before.

Will have chains.

i went up there first week of snow season, there wasnt much ice on the roads near the top but car was sliding up. took out pressure from the rear tyres helped a bit.

hopefully this helps.

having an awd just means its not mandatory to fit chains where those in 2wd will have to.

most important thing would be to make sure your cooling system is up to scratch for the drive up, and your tyres are suitable.

one afternoon at buller after having snowed all day, the last thing i wanted to do is dick around with chains so as i was awd i was let through.. i spun coming out of a bend on the way down and although we were sliding it was that slow my missus asked if maybe she should get out! slid maybe 5-10 car lenghts and wasn't till i hit the rough on the edge of the upcoming bend that we finally stopped.. newish ku36's wouldn't have helped but trick is to go very slow and brake early... test the abs lock it up and you will see how slow it pulls up.

Yeah, obviously having AWD does have a slight advantage over say RWD.

I have driven on snow/ice before and know it's errm not great, just wanted to see if the ATTESA system is OK as its not a full time AWD system..

I'm not sure I understand the question, you're going to be carrying chains, being awd you're less likely to have to go through pain of fitting them in cold/dark/wet. I drive a gt2871 track oriented silvia up to the slopes - lovely roads. Some of my best memories from NZ trips is drive up/down the dirt roads. My advice, take the best car you can and enjoy the drive.

I go to the snow lots in my R34 (RWD). I do lots of snowboarding. I been caught in 2 separate blizzards with the roads icing over, pretty much slowed to 5~10km/h

Trick is just drive slow. Gentle braking and gentle acceleration.

Never used snow chains, but I do carry a set in the boot just in case the absolute need arises.

- Before going up the mountain, make sure yout have a full tank of fuel. You may end up idling for long periods and running your air-con to keep the windows clear. The extra fuel also makes good ballast for RWD cars.

- Battery and alternator in good condition as it maybe harder to start your engine in the cold, and you tend to use lots of electrical equipment eg. lights, demisters, air-con.

- Fresh coolant/anti-freeze

- All lights working

- 2L bottle of tap water and a squeegee in your boot, in the event your windscreen/windows freeze over.

With all this - She will be as sure footed as a mountain goat.

post-41585-0-13783500-1373525231_thumb.png

Whereas I've seen 4wd going too fast and sliding on into an accident. All you have to do is drive to the conditions. Even at vic resorts, sometimes you have to dig out cars but you have to be lucky to get it that good.

one thing to remember is that the attessa 4wd system in the GTR/GTS4 only works when you loose traction

that is the fronts do nothing until the rears slip

so if you dont flog it, the rears wont slip, and the fronts wont take any power, so its basically rwd

Went up yesterday. Had no issues at all. Rarely the rear would slip and the fronts would pickup. Didn't have any "oh shit moments" etc.

Thanks for the feedback.

Ive got a new mitsi outlander. Havnt sused what end takes the drive. But we are parked on the highest road here, and didnt even push the 4wd button

I tryed to give it some as i wanted to c what end took the power/sus traction situation.

But things change in hrs so be prepared and ull be fine, i advise parking with chains on if ur forcast for decent snow. Known fact putting them on after digging ur car out = shit cold wet and dirty

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...