Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cage looks great mate,,,now the crappy jobs start.

Some poor bastard now has to sand every tube properly,,,prime them and then final coat them in your prefered colour. I subleted that shit job out to my favorite spray shop,,,he now hates me. I have some great looking tubes but some have dry coats which look bad. No way can you perfectly paint all the tubes to a price.

The real pain in the bum is some poor bastard (probably you) has to get under the car and wire brush all those floor cage welds and seal them or Mr rust will take over.

Cheers

Neil.

Funnily enough, yes it's a bastard of a job. We've used a wire brush drill bit and without that it would have been a nightmare.

I spent a day sanding the front half of the cage and painting it. The old man then finished off the rest.

So there are two coats of grey RustSeal over the whole lot now. RustSeal doesn't have any UV protection, so we either need to clear it, or what the old man wants to

do, get some KR4 made up with UV protection and do the cage and the gruby interior.

I think I prefer the RustSeal grey, it's much lighter than Nissan KR4. But I kinda like it.

Either way it's still not over yet, as under the car needs to be done.

Found this magic paint, RustSeal that you bush on. So no need to mask the whole car up etc etc.

Need more Power ? :rolleyes:

:yes:

You know what it's like, same old story of money. Going external gate, changing the manifold is a big time and money investment.

Unless you have a spare brae manifold I could borrow for a few months :closedeyes:

  • Like 1

:yes:

You know what it's like, same old story of money. Going external gate, changing the manifold is a big time and money investment.

Unless you have a spare brae manifold I could borrow for a few months :closedeyes:

Get abe to modify your stock manifold to run external hate like he done to mine. Cost me around $500 including turbosmart wastegate.post-84279-14274102715192_thumb.jpg

Probably, doesn't make that much power.

The last test it made 292rwkws on 18psi after cooler but showning holding perfect flat on 25psi precooler, That should make towards 350rwkws on pump once a proper cooler is installed.

Yep, I'm following that development at the moment. From memory I'm making 18psi @ ~3400rpm on the current turbo, so extremely responsive.

Maybe we should take the R34 out to Sandown on the 4th of April and do some track testing ;)

I'm running a Greddy LS cooler, seems ok...

Regarding ride-height..

Your car appears to ride significantly lower than the typical 350/340mm axle->arch measurement recommended by numerous people on this forum. At a guess I'd say it's closer to 330mm front and rear?

Based on your experience, how have these geometry changes (lower roll centre) affected handling?

I found at those heights I couldn't get the camber I wanted on the front. That too me is more important than bump and roll.

It sits from 325-335 depending on the track and conditions on the day. Starting point is 5mm front to rear difference though.

It has some bump tie rods in the front, though I couldn't feel the difference.

  • Like 2

Cage is all painted, might need a bit of a tidy up before WTAC so it looks pretty.

Dash is back in, with the cluster. Cleaned up a bit of ugly stereo, turbo timer, alarm system wiring while I was at it. Though the boost controller and shift light still need to be wired back in.

Screen goes back in it today.

D9BEE156-644D-42BE-A761-AD5D6AEDDACA.jpg

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...

So after the fun day at Sandown there was a list of things to check off, to get the car back performing it's best.

1. check swaybar location

2. fix floor surface under the pedals

3. install roll cage padding

4. diff and gearbox breathers

5. front left steering movement

6. front splitter mounting points

7. fit new harness

post-59171-0-93507700-1429506069_thumb.jpg

So in went the new harness to make the HANS more comfortable.

post-59171-0-63009300-1429506175_thumb.jpg

Added another items to the list, that is give the inside a good clean with de-greaser

post-59171-0-88567300-1429506212_thumb.jpg

The movement in the front left was a loose bolt, with that nipped up movement was gone.

Also backed the swaybar off a hole. See if the front of the car is any different next time.

post-59171-0-16905800-1429506303_thumb.jpg

Added tanks for the diff and gearbox

post-59171-0-60481500-1429506490_thumb.jpg

We've been talking about bonnets for a while and trying to find a cost effective unit off the shelf that is aero and heat effective.

Failing to find one, we dropped two new wheels on the angle grinder and went to it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...