Jump to content
SAU Community

End Of A Short Era...

Teiresias

By Teiresias,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Teiresias Community Regular

Teiresias

Posted
Posted

So, in all likeliness I shall be selling my R34 GTV.

I got rear ended on Manningham Rd on the way to Doncaster by a 96 pathfinder (i think it looks to small to be a patrol).

Left most of the rear end crushed. Bootlid, both lights (one looks ok but isn't working), rear bar obviously, through the reo and into the rear panel, exhaust looks like it has shifted a bit too.

To top it all off, he's uninsured, and my 3rd party only covers me for $3k.

SO! I think it's time to sell for me.

It doesn't look like it'll be ridden off, so whoever buys it won't have to worry about getting it checked out before putting it back on the road.

Has ~80-90k on the clock. 2001. And the gearbox is stuffed, auto, shifting like a horse kick occasionally, been having that problem for a while and haven't been able to fix it after spending some money with a "transmission specialist".

What I want is just ideas on how much people think it'd be worth in that condition. Obviously it still actually drives, but it wouldn't be roadworthy.

I was thinking about the $8k mark.

Thanks, and with terrible regret,

Teiresias.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428540-end-of-a-short-era/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Charles89
Charles89

Buying it at 8k and pay a few thousands to fix it, you can probably get a manual GTV for that much lol :S Not to mention the gearbox is stuffed?...

Therealsandybang
Therealsandybang

Part it out and you'll decent get cash for it. It's the best option. I understand your dismay at your car being crushed and then people coming and telling you it isn't worth much. Unfortunately your

Birds
Birds

Brool story co

Count Grantleyish Grand Master

Count Grantleyish

Posted
Posted

No way you'll get $8k for your 'bent' 34 especially when people are selling undamaged auto turbo 34 at this price.

You might get couple of grand at most. Or wreck it out, you might get more $ that way.

Teiresias Community Regular

Teiresias

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No way you'll get $8k for your 'bent' 34 especially when people are selling undamaged auto turbo 34 at this price.

You might get couple of grand at most. Or wreck it out, you might get more $ that way.

Uhh... The series two GTVs tend to be more expensive then most of the 25GT-Ts you see around... Sure $8k might be shooting too high but when it wasn't 'bent' it was worth around the $14k mark.

Unfortunately there's none on carsales at the moment to get a starting full price from :-/

Count Grantleyish Grand Master

Count Grantleyish

Posted
Posted

In the end of the day, it's only a N/A auto and no way I'd pay 'p-plater tax' these n/a imports are commanding let alone bent one.

You're better off parting it out, there is money to be had on brakes, LSD, and probably other bits (depending on how modified yours are).

Teiresias Community Regular

Teiresias

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Buying it at 8k and pay a few thousands to fix it, you can probably get a manual GTV for that much lol :S

Not to mention the gearbox is stuffed?...

Ok, $7k then? No reason you couldn't drop a manual box into it and they're at around the $250 mark last time I checked (second hand ofc)

Teiresias Community Regular

Teiresias

Posted
  • Author
Posted

8K?! You should team up with the guy selling the 17" tommy kaira wheels

Dude the only GTV on carsales is $17k, now I think that's at least $3k over realistic. Now lets say a GTV worth $14k - ~$6K worth of damage on the rear end (waiting on what the panel beater says exactly) and the gealbox -$1k, $7k doesn't seem unreasonable.

HEKT1K Grand Master

HEKT1K

Posted
Posted

Dude the only GTV on carsales is $17k, now I think that's at least $3k over realistic. Now lets say a GTV worth $14k - ~$6K worth of damage on the rear end (waiting on what the panel beater says exactly) and the gealbox -$1k, $7k doesn't seem unreasonable.

Yes it does.

Why would you spend 14k on purchasing and repairing a stuffed one when you can buy a complete one for the same amount, without the headaches?

You will not get $7k for a crashed na auto 34. There is no need to be upset

Therealsandybang Rising Star

Therealsandybang

Posted
Posted

Part it out and you'll decent get cash for it. It's the best option. I understand your dismay at your car being crushed and then people coming and telling you it isn't worth much. Unfortunately your vehicle, while it may be a gtv, is automatic and non turbo. This is not an ideal vehicle for people who have 14k to spend.

Goodluck with your sale

  • Like 1
Teiresias Community Regular

Teiresias

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yea. Sorry. Bit frustrated with it all. Work has cut my hours to something like 3 hours a fortnight and this bastard just has to come along and seal the deal.

By the sound of it all it's not even worth selling it, but repairing it instead. I'm reluctant to do so, I don't even know if I'll get anything off this son of a bitch but yea.

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted

Just out of curiosity, since this guy isn't insured and I'm assuming you have all the details and he's not a complete a$$hole, why is he not fixing what he has damaged?

If he doesn't want to pay, you have all the legal bits to go through, however I'm fairly sure in Victoria if you're hit up the backside in safe driving conditions it's the other driver's fault. Were you doing something you shouldn't have? Forced your way into another lane and stopped suddenly or something?

If that's the case and it's your fault fair enough with what you're doing, but otherwise I'd be going and getting a few quotes to fix the car from reputable workshops and hand him one that's reasonable and tell him to pay for repairs - then sell your car if you've had enough.

Also, as others have said, not worth 7-8k regardless in current state, once a car has had a decent hit and you're suggesting the rear end may be somewhat twisted, even if you fix it up to how it was, it has that history, more chances of weak spots, welding replacement body parts on possibly, not driving straight, doors being a bit harder to open/close, etc.

Good luck with it, do feel for ya.

Teiresias Community Regular

Teiresias

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just out of curiosity, since this guy isn't insured and I'm assuming you have all the details and he's not a complete a$$hole, why is he not fixing what he has damaged?

If he doesn't want to pay, you have all the legal bits to go through, however I'm fairly sure in Victoria if you're hit up the backside in safe driving conditions it's the other driver's fault. Were you doing something you shouldn't have? Forced your way into another lane and stopped suddenly or something?

If that's the case and it's your fault fair enough with what you're doing, but otherwise I'd be going and getting a few quotes to fix the car from reputable workshops and hand him one that's reasonable and tell him to pay for repairs - then sell your car if you've had enough.

Also, as others have said, not worth 7-8k regardless in current state, once a car has had a decent hit and you're suggesting the rear end may be somewhat twisted, even if you fix it up to how it was, it has that history, more chances of weak spots, welding replacement body parts on possibly, not driving straight, doors being a bit harder to open/close, etc.

Good luck with it, do feel for ya.

It's 100% his fault, I was slowing down as there was an accident on the other side of the intersection, I had almost come to a stop at the lights, but took my time slowing down, it was a good 5 seconds after I was slowing that he hit me, hadn't even indicated yet to go into another lane.

Yea he gave me his ID, but I'm actually suspicious of it all, his name on the license is different to the name he gave me when he got out of the car, and the name of the email address he gave me. Also he is on his Ps (according to the license he gave me) and didn't have plates up.

So I'm a bit concerned and preparing for the worst. Brought it to the panel beaters yesterday so I'll find out early next week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...