Jump to content
SAU Community

Charging R35 Battery Help

Sammy-qld

By Sammy-qld,
in VR Series - R35 GTR, Juke-R

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sammy-qld Enthusiast

Sammy-qld

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, since my GTR isn't a daily driver anymore I'm looking for the best way to charge the car battery to keep it topped up.

The garage I have work on the car say to not hook up a standard top up charger as it could short circuit and brick the car and its internal computer.

Is there anything to watch for by disconnecting power to the car for 2 days while the battery is unplugged from the car and hooked up to a standard charger?

Please anyone have a clue on this i'm completely lost on what to use.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Wardski Rising Star

Wardski

Posted
Posted

Better off getting the 8 stage Ctek so that you know the battery has been cycled properly, then kept in maintenance mode..

MXS 5.0 v1 is what I would recommend.

I also have a Ctek battery level LED indicator strapped to my battery which has a Ctek female connector for easy charging and monitoring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
JSFF35 Apprentice

JSFF35

Posted
Posted

Been using CTEK chargers for at least 6 years now without any problems EXCEPT when I did exactly what the instructions tell you not to do and plugged the charger into the power supply and then connected it to the battery and killed it dead . Make sure you read the instructions as some models have several charging modes. I have one car with an Optima battery that has been on the maintenance cycle for most of the last 6 years and the battery seems as good as new.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      All the above effort, time, swapping out parts in the dark (i.e. no O2 data). You're literally running in the dark.
    • MrStabby
      ATTESSA and pressure switches

      By MrStabby · Posted

      Looks like both of my cars have pressure switch issues. The R32 GTR has 18 flashes on the ATTESSA controller which is "ETS pressure switch circuit". The 4WD light is intermittent, and often just restarting the car clears it. There is an $300 replacement option https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285675135148?itmmeta=01HXN3YKRGKQ08GRZ5KFKKZWJT&hash=item428390a0ac:g:6CcAAOSwWxBltMEG so if it becomes a permanent issue and I can confirm that the switch is the issue, i have a solution. The NM35 is reporting C1208, and disconnecting the switch causes the 4WD light to go away. Translating from the Japanese shop manual "when the pressure is reduced to 2.6MPa (377 psi) or less: conduction occurs when the pressure increases to 3.8MPa (550 psi) or less: conduction is present. Reference: • Immediately after the E-TS actuator motor stops, the pressure inside the accumulator is high and there is no continuity." Not sure how good the translation is but from what i can deduce this means the switch is normally closed (NC) and as the pressure builds from 0 to 550 psi the switch stays closed, then opens and 550 psi. As the pressure drops from 550 psi to 377 psi the switch stays open then closes again at 377 psi. Is that how these things work? These pressures are a lot higher than the R32 ("control pressure 0-228 psi") but i'm hoping i can find a generic switch (like they've done for the R32) to use as a replacement. Maybe something like https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355586397452?epid=1676016964&itmmeta=01HXN534AF22ACTG6TGDDQGEQ7&hash=item52ca99d50c:g:mAEAAOSw8ilmBcMh&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LtWdNlWHgyJ%2F3cbw25S2A1lde3qBi3fJii4T3lQavCz4kpqiD42SmBa4FocMvXCjcxiowHjb8vZ8%2BWxc53BkHv781tkStSnCDaenfGKC3bIp0keK20dfsn9LoPa3TfqaEmAydqqyKobgTdXsGGzsl%2BRjOVGuD8OIpOv%2B0wMl7aUtHg0iJtojbtzA%2BRS8Xfm8Ufjuvz4niwrqglAXFUbkL6J%2FGuHPeeECZhLBBN3iNM1Swl94Fv5zE95YK%2B5O6dxDN1ySNOjdMxkA8yaprbuwRHFQv1nlGh%2FWjekj6EUFR2%2FO4HTsoKtSAkY0Mj1w1uf1w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zFjKXtYw but with a lower close pressure, and thread adapter if required. Am i dreaming?
    • GTSBoy
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Won't be.
    • GTSBoy
      In Need if Help with Signal lights: Constant on

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That is a dead f**king short of B+ to ground. Scary.
    • Butters
      Rebuild vs second hand NEO?

      By Butters · Posted

      10-15 years ago, the answer would always be buy a good import motor and so many machine shops make.a hash of an engine rebuild, or they think they are some sort of RB magicians and want 40k.      Now as others have stated, you are buying a VERY old used motor. So rebuild is the correct answer.  Just finding a machine shop that will both do a good job and charge you a regular price is now your challenge. 
×
×
  • Create New...