Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello.

Ive found a nice m35 3.5lt rwd

My questions are

What have u guys paid for these b4?

Chain tensioner- how many ks until it needs looking at?

How is the timing adjusted on these? Automatic or manually?

Where can i get a rear boot matt from?

Common issues...

Do these suffer the rear end issues the earlier m35s had?

Anything i need to specifically look at?

I know electrics can be a prick on these,

How common, and what sorts of failures have you come across?

Rear tyre ware bad? And is fuel really 11.5 km/100? (Of course there are many factors but as a general guide?)

If/when i get it, ill budget for this,

Transport (syd to melb -who have we all used)

Travel to and from on a plane

Spark plugs

Engine oil and filter

O2 sensor (what one do i use? 350z?)

Brake fluid - check brakes

Power steer

Flush coolant

Rwc, rego, stamp duty

Insurance

Epic alarm

Cant think of much eles to ask atm. Any info is great!

In terms of mods, i dont need power, torque,looks.

I want comfort and fuel economy.

Is there a nice set of coilovers that are quite comfy?

And is there alot to gain with exhaust mods. (Dont want it louder than it is)

Thanx all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428945-vq35de-and-m35-axis-help/
Share on other sites

Please see answers in caps. Sorry, not intending to interwebz shout, just easier for you too see and read ;)

Hello.

Ive found a nice m35 3.5lt rwd

My questions are

What have u guys paid for these b4? WHATEVER ITS WORTH.

Chain tensioner- how many ks until it needs looking at? 250,000+ I'M GUESSING. DEPENDS ON SERVICING

How is the timing adjusted on these? Automatic or manually? AUTOMATICALLY

Where can i get a rear boot matt from? YAJ/STREETER/IM

Common issues...

Do these suffer the rear end issues the earlier m35s had? DEFINE ISSUE PLS

Anything i need to specifically look at? SAME AS ANY OTHER USED CAR

I know electrics can be a prick on these,
How common, and what sorts of failures have you come across? NOT PERSONALLY, BUT ENGINE CAM/CRANK SENSORS, INTERIOR SCREEN

Rear tyre ware bad? And is fuel really 11.5 km/100? (Of course there are many factors but as a general guide?) NO IF ALIGNED CORRECTLY, AND YES, I'D BE STOKED WITH 11.5. MINE DOES SHORT TRIPS AND IS ABOUT 14/100. ON THE FREEWAY A BIT BELOW 10

If/when i get it, ill budget for this,

Transport (syd to melb -who have we all used)
Travel to and from on a plane
Spark plugs
Engine oil and filter
O2 sensor (what one do i use? 350z?) GOING TO REPLACE ALL 4....? MIGHT GET EXPENSIVE....
Brake fluid - check brakes
Power steer
Flush coolant
Rwc, rego, stamp duty
Insurance
Epic alarm


Cant think of much eles to ask atm. Any info is great!

In terms of mods, i dont need power, torque,looks.

I want comfort and fuel economy.

Is there a nice set of coilovers that are quite comfy? READ WHAT YOU WROTE IN THE PREVIOUS 2 LINES - WHY WOULD YOU WANT COILOVERS...?

And is there alot to gain with exhaust mods. (Dont want it louder than it is) NO

Thanx all

In terms of coils, im thinking of shagged out stockies not being any good, due to age, kms, and conditions

M35 issues are rear cradle mainly. Turbo also but this is N/A

The screen is it a pixle issue, or just dies? Easy to come by?

And is the cam sensor a prick to swap or is it not too hard?

In terms of coils, im thinking of shagged out stockies not being any good, due to age, kms, and conditions

Bc coil overs is what most run when they get them. They aren't harsh, but if you can get your hands on bilstein shocks, you'll be pleased. There are a lot of options

M35 issues are rear cradle mainly. Turbo also but this is N/A

Haven't heard of a cracked pm35. Some theory is that hicas increases the chance of crack, but overloading and rough roads stiff springs is a bad combo. It's a simple fix. Weld it if cracked.

The screen is it a pixle issue, or just dies? Easy to come by?

The motor that makes the screen go up and down can be temperamental. Haven't heard of replacement, but wouldn't be simple

And is the cam sensor a prick to swap or is it not too hard?

Easy enough for a confident home mechanic. Back of either head, and in the bell housing.

I need a bloody matt for the back.

The bulldogs claws dont like leather

There are few on importmonster about 60-80 plus postage. If not got to clark rubber and make one out of thin rubber. I think scotty nm35 got his made up if I remeber about a year ago if I remember correctly.

Keep us posted with how you go Chef.

I'm interested too, the simplicity of PNM35's really appeals to me as I don't drive in snow/icy conditions. Non turbo is a big win also given how "one of a kind" the NM35 turbos are.

Without driving one it's hard to know how they are power wise - reading the specs a bit more than the NM35's from factory but obviously a lot easier to pull more out of a NM35 without more major modifications (bolt ons, mainly).

My other concern is fuel economy. I used to get excellent economy out of my NM35 - just over 10L/100km around town assuming I was wearing my sensible pants and as low as 8L-9L/100km on the highway without air cond.

I think if I bought a PNM35 I'd be organising a remap for it so I'd be hoping that I would be able to get those sort of economy figures out of one.

Keep us posted with how you go Chef.

I'm interested too, the simplicity of PNM35's really appeals to me as I don't drive in snow/icy conditions. Non turbo is a big win also given how "one of a kind" the NM35 turbos are.

Without driving one it's hard to know how they are power wise - reading the specs a bit more than the NM35's from factory but obviously a lot easier to pull more out of a NM35 without more major modifications (bolt ons, mainly).

My other concern is fuel economy. I used to get excellent economy out of my NM35 - just over 10L/100km around town assuming I was wearing my sensible pants and as low as 8L-9L/100km on the highway without air cond.

I think if I bought a PNM35 I'd be organising a remap for it so I'd be hoping that I would be able to get those sort of economy figures out of one.

:/ remap for fuel economy? Isn't it expensive just to do a remap for fuel economy? and you might not get what you'd be hoping for, wouldn't it be cheaper to get it gas converted?

I'm a 4th year apprentice, I also have another job, completely independent. I manage 250km to 270km for half a tank on average and the car is my daily, it's hell unpractical as a daily, but I love the car to bits reason being it offers soo much and for me they outweigh the cost of running the thing and I'm not just talking fuel economy. If I wanted a car that was big, fuel economic and would save more money compared to a PNM35 I'd be looking at probably a diesel wagon or an SV6 or something...

You'd probably save more by spending 100$ a week at Coles or Woolies and use the fuel discount rather than a remap or get another NM35 as the savings of fuel you get over a year you can budget for tubz? Then next year with the same savings you can get a couple AFMs as spares.

Not trying to talk you out of PNM35's but one thing they ain't is economic :P.

But on to the mechanical issues, the only issue I've had was a split CV boot, the rear diff was weeping but that was just a blocked breather I was told, and I've replaced the radiator. The car has almost done 144k kms and I've probably put about 10k kms on myself.

Edited by M35woah

Engines have become a lot more efficient, these things run wideband o2 correction... But it's still 3.5L in a 2 ton car...

Liquid gas conversion would be the go like Matt said.


:/ remap for fuel economy?

I'd be looking at probably a diesel wagon or an SV6 or something...

SV6 isn't going to be any better on fuel, nor is the NM35. Even the missus A4 1.8t only gets around 9L/hundred on the hwy.

My other concern is fuel economy. I used to get excellent economy out of my NM35 - just over 10L/100km around town assuming I was wearing my sensible pants and as low as 8L-9L/100km on the highway without air cond.

I think if I bought a PNM35 I'd be organising a remap for it so I'd be hoping that I would be able to get those sort of economy figures out of one.

SV6 isn't going to be any better on fuel, nor is the NM35. Even the missus A4 1.8t only gets around 9L/hundred on the hwy.

Just going on what Jasevr4 has stated what he got previously, and the SV6 is just going on redbook figures.

The figures that Jase stated put the PNM35 to shame, there is no way I can do 10L/100km around town unless freeway town.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...