Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ah ok, i thought maybe the solenoid was to restrict it to 5 from 7. ah well there goes that idea. will keep shopping for a 10psi r32 one. Any diagrams going around to disconnect it once i get the 32 one?

I think i did one a few pages back :down:

Hi!

There is no restrictor as such.

The actuator is subdued to the manifold pressure unless the car reaches 4500 rpm or so.

At this point the solenoid kicks in and reduces the pressure on the actuator, tricking the actuator into 'assuming' the boost is lower than actually is.

The actuator is a 5PSI type ..

Cheers,

Andrew

ah ok, i thought maybe the solenoid was to restrict it to 5 from 7. ah well there goes that idea. will keep shopping for a 10psi r32 one. Any diagrams going around to disconnect it once i get the 32 one?
Edited by Torques
ah ok, i thought maybe the solenoid was to restrict it to 5 from 7. ah well there goes that idea. will keep shopping for a 10psi r32 one. Any diagrams going around to disconnect it once i get the 32 one?

once you have the 10psi actuator the solinoids will be obsolite wont they ??

  • 1 month later...
this mod has been around for a while now, how have peoples solenoids held up with being held open 100% of the time when it should normally be momentarily? any solenoid failures?

...I'll second that. Anyone?

  • 1 month later...

Attention R34 owners

I have just done this mod without cutting or stripping any wires and it works.

1) Unplug the solenoid

2) Feed wire through the ecu plug side and reconnect plug. (see pics on post 231 on pg12) ignore warning as he had a different problem (see post 355 pg18)

3) Turn ignition on but not engine

4) R34's have an earthing strap from the engine that earths on the chassis just below the solenoid via a spade plug. Attach other end of wire here.

5) You will here the solenoid 'click'.

6) Drive around on high boost below 4500 revs.

Took less time to perform the mod than it did to write this post :P

Side note for those who want a switch for fuel economy. There are 3 pedals in the drivers side foot well. The far right one is the fuel economy switch. It's a good switch as it's progressive and not just an on/off switch :P

could some one please send me a pic of how the vac hoses are ment to be connected to the solenoid because mine has been bypassed and i want to connect it back up.

Here you go ...

post-33912-1288562192_thumb.jpg

Edited by Torques

Anyone with an R34 that has done this and felt a difference, before you did the mod, did you see the boost change at 4500 rpm? Using the stock gauge, once I hit max boost around 2800, it doesn't change until the redline.

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Is this useless if you have an EBC?

Noobiest question Ive ever asked lol.

An EBC is basically a more advanced/adjustable version of the stock solenoid. Normally to fit a EBC the standard solenoid would be removed/disconnected.

if you unplug one of the hoses and block it it tricks the solenoid into keeping the wastegate closed for longer coz its getting an inaccurate reading,

by doing this i am running 11psi and only takes 30 seconds to do. seems pretty safe and dont get any boost spikes as far as i can tell

if you unplug one of the hoses and block it it tricks the solenoid into keeping the wastegate closed for longer coz its getting an inaccurate reading,

by doing this i am running 11psi and only takes 30 seconds to do. seems pretty safe and dont get any boost spikes as far as i can tell

I had mine off and it definately did the same thing.. I ended up connecting it back up and doing it with the wire, but i am hitting 9 sometimes 10psi and i have only got a cat back and pod. Cant wait for my turbo back..

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...