Jump to content
SAU Community

HOWTO: RB25DET High Boost mode with standard solenoid

paulr33

By paulr33,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

R34gymjunkie Contributor

R34gymjunkie

Posted
Posted

Ok so I did this mod 3 days ago, I have a r34 gtt sedan, doesn't come with a boost gauge, the

Mod worked great then yesterday it felt like it was back to normal, anyway I read some1 posted bout joining the 2 connecting hoses on the solenoids together, so I've done that and my car goes like a rocket,my car has been converted to manual and also had the turbo replaced with another 34 turbo but was told it was reconditioned and had a steel wheel, my car doesn't back fire at all and it feels like its running more then 7psi... I will get a boost gauge ASAP but have I done something that I'm going to regret or not cos I'm loving this power....

  • Replies 704
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

paulr33
paulr33

HOWTO: RB25DET High Boost mode with standard solenoid Intended Audience: Stock RB25DET owners Technical Level: Very Easy Duration: 5 minutes Effort: Easy Result: Fairly Good !!!Caution/Ach

Sciby
Sciby

Reset the computer by disconnecting the battery, put the brake pedal few times (to ensure there's no residual charge), then reconnect the battery. Good idea to take it for a good drive now, so it rema

Sklyn
Sklyn

Karu it doesn't matter because you won't use the solenoid at all once you install a boost controller. And with stock ecu and turbo do NOT run over 12 psi, naybe even 10 depending on your car.

Posted Images

R34gymjunkie Contributor

R34gymjunkie

Posted
Posted

I also did try disconnecting the bottom hose on the solenoid to see what it was like and I hit some kind of cut at around 4200rpm so I put it back on... But now I've connected these hoses it feels amazing and has no sign of cutting out or leaning out, it's real smooth, feels like its hitting full boost at around 3k, is it possible that I have a 32 actuator in my turbo? Also I still have the black wire earthed, only other mods is a k and n pod, still stock exhaust...

Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

Yep.

1) Get a boost gauge ASAP.

2) If you disconnected the bottom hose and didn't plug it, then you probably had infinite boost (til stuff go boom) cause the actuator would have no pressue to it and wastegate wouldn't have opened.

3) You could have a 32 actuator. (pics?)

Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted (edited)

Scroll up ^^^ to post #608 the first pic shows an actuator. (the brassy coloured thingo with the hose going to it)

Looks to be an R33 one. R32 the hose comes straight out the side. (down I think)

Edited by Not a Pulsar
Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted (edited)

Between turbs and strut tower. Easy to see if your head is the size of a tennis ball. :rolleyes:

Look closely and you will see it.

Edited by Not a Pulsar
  • 1 month later...
sonnyQ Mentor

sonnyQ

Posted
Posted

Finally got around to doing this today. Car feels to pull a but harder when coming out of a corner in second. Haven't had the chance to take it for a big hit yet.

If it's not done correctly it will only boost to ~5psi correct? On my stock 34 boost gauge she sits a little over halfway to +1 which would be around 0.8 bar is that right? Only mods are full 3.5in turbo back exhaust and FMIC so this would constitute slightly higher boost than normal right?

fun, cheap little mod

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

Finally got around to doing this today. Car feels to pull a but harder when coming out of a corner in second. Haven't had the chance to take it for a big hit yet.

If it's not done correctly it will only boost to ~5psi correct? On my stock 34 boost gauge she sits a little over halfway to +1 which would be around 0.8 bar is that right? Only mods are full 3.5in turbo back exhaust and FMIC so this would constitute slightly higher boost than normal right?

fun, cheap little mod

If it's not done correctly it could go to infinite boost or 5psi.

Personally, I would not trust the factory gauge - whilst the boost sensor reads accurately, it's impossible to get an accurate measure on the actual boost you're reading. If you are hitting 0.8 bar that's 11.6psi - which may be on the high-side.

With a 3" exhaust & FMIC - without this modification - I was hitting around 8-8.5psi through the mid-range. Even with a 3.5" exhaust, I wouldn't have thought you'd be hitting 11.6psi - but maybe it is. I ended up fitting a 10psi R32 actuator to get a steady 10psi (0.68 bar) - which is safe on the factory turbo. I quickly hit R&R when I let the factory boost solenoid connected as well so this was dropped.

Either way - yeah, maybe temporarily (or permanently) drop an aftermarket boost gauge on there, I'd be surprised you not hitting R&R if you are hitting 11.6 psi..

sonnyQ Mentor

sonnyQ

Posted
Posted

If it's not done correctly it could go to infinite boost or 5psi.

Personally, I would not trust the factory gauge - whilst the boost sensor reads accurately, it's impossible to get an accurate measure on the actual boost you're reading. If you are hitting 0.8 bar that's 11.6psi - which may be on the high-side.

With a 3" exhaust & FMIC - without this modification - I was hitting around 8-8.5psi through the mid-range. Even with a 3.5" exhaust, I wouldn't have thought you'd be hitting 11.6psi - but maybe it is. I ended up fitting a 10psi R32 actuator to get a steady 10psi (0.68 bar) - which is safe on the factory turbo. I quickly hit R&R when I let the factory boost solenoid connected as well so this was dropped.

Either way - yeah, maybe temporarily (or permanently) drop an aftermarket boost gauge on there, I'd be surprised you not hitting R&R if you are hitting 11.6 psi..

Nah definitely not getting infinite boost as it peaked just over that halfway mark on the gauge as I mentioned. Yeah I know the factory gauge is pretty dodge - I wouldn't mind a proper accurate gauge, I think it would be wise if I eventually get a nistune. Do you know if it's possible to just change out the factory boost gauge and leave the others (apart from looking a bit meh)?

I guess the question is - those who have done this mod and are still using the factory R34 boost gauge, where does ~5psi sit? Pretty sure I have done the mod correctly....it doesn't look like rocket science.

erm...whats R&R :blush:

Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

it doesn't look like rocket science.

erm...whats R&R :blush:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/169507-rich-retard/page__hl__rich+%26amp%3B+retard

sonnyQ Mentor

sonnyQ

Posted
Posted

Got it, thanks.

It feels fine but will get more of an idea of the changes when I take it on my usual circuit.

I know it has been asked already but is there any longevity problems with this mod? I'm sure there are people that have been running it for a number of years now..

  • 2 weeks later...
Jamie77 Enthusiast

Jamie77

Posted
Posted

Got it, thanks.

It feels fine but will get more of an idea of the changes when I take it on my usual circuit.

I know it has been asked already but is there any longevity problems with this mod? I'm sure there are people that have been running it for a number of years now..

Runing this mod for 1 1/2 years, daily no problem.

sonnyQ Mentor

sonnyQ

Posted
Posted

Runing this mod for 1 1/2 years, daily no problem.

Yep all good for me too, car seems to have a little more punch around the 3k rpm mark but no change higher in the rev range. Induction noise is almost bordering on annoying down low.

Would recommend this to everyone with stockish setups.

  • 1 month later...
Zoidberg1 Newbie

Zoidberg1

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

I did this mod on my stock 96' S2R33 & now she wont rev past 2500rpm.

I freaked out (cause I just got the car), &put it back to original(re joined the wire),

But still only reving to 2500rpm...

Please help, I'm new to skylines..

What could be the problem??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...