Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

where do you recommend placing the EGT sensor on a twin turbo RB26?

Do you recommend two EGT sensors or is one enough?

If I decide to install one sensor I assume the best location to attach it is in the exhaust manifold runner of the 6th cylinder as it is known for running lean sometimes?

If I choose to use two EGT sensors should I both place in the collectors of the exhaust manifolds just before the Turbo?

Or should I place the rear sensor (Cyl 4-6) in the exhaust manifold runner of the 6th cylinder?

Six EGT sensors are exceeding my budget if someone wants to suggest that :D

Thanks!

I took a slightly different approach. I only have one (and it's an RB25, so only one turbo and standard manifold). I think the temperature upstream the turbo is the one to worry about seeing as the gas loses some temperature across the turbine. So I installed mine into the (standard) turbine housing itself, just near the flange. That's a lot easier to organise than putting it into the manifold at the collector. I would have been just as if not more happy to put it in the manifold. I have the thermocouple head just peaking through into the gas stream, so the response time is not super dooper quick, but neither does it unduly upset the gas flow into the scroll.

FWIW, on an RB25 Neo running the standard tune, it idles at ~400°C, I see 600°C driving with moderate load and well up towards 800°C when working it hard. The highest temp seen on my (peak recall) was close to 900°C. That looks and sounds worrying, doesn't it? I'm hoping that even with reduced fuelling in the upper ranges of the map that it will actually cool down due to adding in some real timing (the factory maps are sooooo retarded!).

So, with respect to the OP's question, I would concur with kitto's suggestion that you use 2, one in each dump. But if you prefer to know the temp in the manifolds, then it becomes two, one in each turbine housing, or in the collectors, depending on what's easy, and how expensive the turbine housings are!

cheers

Isn't the whole point to measure the exh. temperature before the turbo?

So why are you advising to mount the sensors behind the turbo in the dump pipe?

Furthermore I don't think that there is a big difference between mounting the sensors in the collectors of the exhaust manifolds or in the turbo exhaust housing.

But I rather prefer not to modify my new exhaust housings.

Hey guys,

where do you recommend placing the EGT sensor on a twin turbo RB26?

Do you recommend two EGT sensors or is one enough?

If I decide to install one sensor I assume the best location to attach it is in the exhaust manifold runner of the 6th cylinder as it is known for running lean sometimes?

If I choose to use two EGT sensors should I both place in the collectors of the exhaust manifolds just before the Turbo?

Or should I place the rear sensor (Cyl 4-6) in the exhaust manifold runner of the 6th cylinder?

Six EGT sensors are exceeding my budget if someone wants to suggest that :D

Thanks!

One in each dump pipe, as close to the turbine as possible.

Most K type thermocouples will fitt next to the 02 sensors on the stock twin set up.

Cheers

J.

  • 2 months later...

How many EGT sensors does the BNR34 run? And where exactly are they located?

22740 - AA300

p1.jpg?ct=15fa203c87f8

I'm doing a MFD install on my GTR and I want to have to enable the EGT read-out.

I want to say that only the Vspec and N1 have a EGT sensor(s) and the associated outlet pipes (with the bung to attach the sensor). I suppose I'll need those particular BNR34 outlets pipe(s) to install the sensor(s). Can someone confirm that?

Edited by CrimsonLey

Just drill and tap a hole. I think I'll follow GTSBoy's example and put it in the turbo as its too tight to get into the manifold before the turbo and I don't want it after the turbo.

How many EGT sensors does the BNR34 run? And where exactly are they located?

22740 - AA300

p1.jpg?ct=15fa203c87f8

I'm doing a MFD install on my GTR and I want to have to enable the EGT read-out.

I want to say that only the Vspec and N1 have a EGT sensor(s) and the associated outlet pipes (with the bung to attach the sensor). I suppose I'll need those particular BNR34 outlets pipe(s) to install the sensor(s). Can someone confirm that?

A standard R34 Gtr run the EGT sensor in the dump pipe before the front pipe flange. They will read around 800 degrees most of the time under full load and idle down to 400 and the go off scale below 400 when you can shutdown. Its not a tuning aid, its a run down aid after giving the car a flogging.

I ran an EGT in the narrow band position and saw 850 -900 degrees under full load, but really the maximum temp is determined by how long you hold full load.

I advise against running them in the manifold or the turbine. Thermal expansion differences between the iron of the turbine and the Inconel of the sensor mean you always end up with an exhaust leak. That is unless you run no heat shields on twin manifolds, run a single manifold, or you really enjoy pulling your car apart to fix exhaust leaks.

Sensors in all the runners 1" from the port is the only way to get effective data to use as a tuning aid, but the same issue with leaks caused by thermal expansion still applies.

^^
Thanks for the reply. I sent you a PM on GTR UK as well, btw. Same question so no worries if you choose to ignore it.

The BNR34 has two dump pipes (aka outlet pipes), which pipe contains the EGT sensor?

Also, both dump pipes have an O2 sensor attached of them, right? Moreover, they are both relatively small so how can that long EGT sensor fit in there?

I'm doing a MFD into my BNR32 so, at this point, I'm only interested in configuring my EGT like the BNR34 UK, N1, VSPEC EGT setup. I'll probably buy BNR34 N1 dumps since they should have the O2 sensor bungs and EGT bung. Does that sound reasonable so am I totally off?

Apologies for all the questions.


Im not on the UK forum much lately... too busy with work generally.

I believe it is the rear dump that has the EGT sensor in the BNR34's, its there for ease of placement and access. Not for any other reason. Its quite cramped in that area of the car as you know.

Yes you could buy some standard dumps from a vspec, The R32's are a cast dump so you can't easily weld a bung for the 16x1.5mm sensor probe to it. Best to switch to an after market dump and if necessary tig weld on the sensor bung in the appropriate position.

Yes both dumps have a narrow band EGT port. I used an adaptor from the 18x1.5mm to the 16x1.5mm that is the standard GTR EGT probe thread. I just welded a few tangs on around the inside of the adapter so that the sensor probe wouldn't fall inside the exhaust, and bolted it in with a copper washer seal.

Yeah, not a lot is happening on GTR UK. Like walking into a bar and only seeing a bunch of dudes. I saw your reply to a familiar post so I figured you were the right individual to ask. Ironically, I also noticed that you put Oz as your location so I was hoping to touch bases with you here.

When you said, "I used an adaptor from the 18x1.5mm to the 16x1.5mm that is the standard GTR EGT probe thread," you mean that my standard BNR32 O2 probes will not screw into the bung on the BNR34 Vspec dumps that I want to buy?

Yes correct.

Although its a 18x1.5 down to 12x1.5 adapter. Not 16x1.5 like I said before.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BASSANI-ADAPTERS-REDUCE-02-O2-SENSOR-PORTS-BUNGS-18MM-TO-12MM-HARLEY-MODLES-/141083999349?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20d942fc75

Many narrow band are also 12x1.5. Some are 18x1.5 but all widebands are defiantly 18x1.5.

  • Like 1

FINALLY.

I found some BNR34 Vspec outlet pipes from YAJ:

yasu32gtr2000-img600x450-13746195668voxt

Gentlemen, thank you for your insight. I love how passionate ya'll are about Skylines.

Ian, thanks for the info. I'll have to buy the adapters you mentioned as well.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...