Complete N1 Block

[Fat32gtr]

Does anyone know what comes with it? Crank cradle, oil squirters?

I called just jap and they claimed that no oil squirters included and they were $140 each if I wanted to buy them. I would have thought it included everything except pistons, crank and rods.

So I called another place and oil squirters and cradle were included. Has anyone had any experience with them and know what's included? Last thing I want is to get ripped off.

Thanks.

[GTRNUR]

You get a block, cradle, main cradle bolts and that is all.

No coolant fittings, no thermostat cover, no head alignment dowels.

Edited August 3, 2013 by GTRNUR

[Fat32gtr]

Thanks for that, now I know if I were to buy it from the other place and no squirters were included in the package which would cause me to loose my shit. They were abit more expensive then just jap but at least now I know what I'm expecting

[GTRNUR]

Your better off buying a used N1 block that is still an 86mm bore, and then machining it for use. There is a chance you will get a few of the ancillary parts along the way with a 2nd hand block too.

My most recent N1 block had the cylinder bores on average 5 thou off centre from the centreline of the crank. You have to bore to 86.5mm at least to correct this.

[R31Nismoid]

Plus a N1 block still has the oiling issues that doing a proper rebuild fixes.

Also debatable that a N1 block is any stronger than a factory one, so even spending the money on one to start is another question entirely

[Fat32gtr]

Plus a N1 block still has the oiling issues that doing a proper rebuild fixes.

Also debatable that a N1 block is any stronger than a factory one, so even spending the money on one to start is another question entirely

Then why make a N1 block if its going to be the same or worse then the normal block? This is the thing I don't get about this forum no straight anwswer. From what bullshit I read in magazines and other peoples experiences, they say N1 block is the shit. I'm doing this for my piece of mind knowing hopefully ill have an engine that will outlast.

Nismoid I'm not trying to have a go at you but have you ever run one in your car? or anyone else that has one? I'm in mind F*** mode atm. I'm at the point where I cant trust anyones opinions or take seriously. But please If you can depate that the N1 block is stronger then the factory one somehow please let me know, I would love to save that 3k in my pocket for something else.

Thanks.

[discoPumpkin]

well said

[wolverine]

Have you thought about putting a full post of what you intend to do with the engine, how much power etc?

(sorry if you have posted this somewhere).

[Fat32gtr]

Yep sure I'm not going for massive power, roughly 350awkw but reliable. Will be driven on weekends and with a few track days to take out my frustrations.

N1 block

Extended sump 9.5litres

Apexi pfc

Nismo afm

Garret 2860-5

Block and head mods feed and return unsure what sizes. From what I have read 1.2mm is the most effective.

Sard 700cc

Might stick with my crank and get crank collar or maybe just get the 34 crank

Nitto 86mm + ibeam rods

Cam shafts unsure yet

Cam gears

Ati balancer

Tomei oil pump

Standard water pump

Sump will have 1 feed on both sides with a threaded -10 fitting but will be capped of for the time being as I'm unsure what to do with the oil return drains and crank case venting.

Hope I havent forgotten anything.

[R31Nismoid]

Then why make a N1 block if its going to be the same or worse then the normal block? This is the thing I don't get about this forum no straight anwswer. From what bullshit I read in magazines and other peoples experiences, they say N1 block is the shit. I'm doing this for my piece of mind knowing hopefully ill have an engine that will outlast.

Nismoid I'm not trying to have a go at you but have you ever run one in your car? or anyone else that has one? I'm in mind F*** mode atm. I'm at the point where I cant trust anyones opinions or take seriously. But please If you can depate that the N1 block is stronger then the factory one somehow please let me know, I would love to save that 3k in my pocket for something else.

Thanks.

Because people split N1 blocks in the SAME spot as a factory RB26 block - irrespective of the power - if they are not built correctly. If you read all the threads, you'd see that's a reasonably common theme so why there is no straight answer is beyond me.

It's been proven time and time again that a factory RB26 block will easily handle 450rwkw if built CORRECTLY from the outset.

- Grout filling the block.

- Doing the right oil modifications.

- Putting a decent diff up front so it doesn't disintegrate and destroy the sump.

- Building the bottom end properly so it won't spin bearings, wont let rods go etc etc.

- Putting in a decent clutch that absorbs a bit of punishment rather than being a rock.

I had 360-380rwkw in my FACTORY RB26 block. That block did (including before/after rebuild)

- Easily 50 track days. Might have been more between two previous owners

- 400+ 8200rpm launches, 30 or so of them on full drag radials (until i broke a diff), the rest on semi comps and AD08s in 285

- At least 40,000kms - plenty of that was not being taken easily.

People have cracked under 400rwkw, same as people have had 500rwkw out of a stock one. Proof is in the pudding for me when so many users on this forum use stock blocks and never have a problem at all. These people are spending 15k on average doing a build, so 3k really isn't much in the grand scheme you could say... But I've always said, why spent it if you dont need to? You can then spent elsewhere on brakes, suspension, transfer case etc

[GTRNUR]

Well I can say for certain that the N1 block cylinders are no thicker in the cylinder walls than an 05u block. I've recently had one re-sleeved, and all cylinder break through to coolant around 92mm OD. I can't say exactly what diameter it was though as I bored a lot further than 92mm.

The thinnest section is between the cylinders. They Rb26 blocks have an oval cylinder with an OD of about 96mm, and 92mm between the cylinders. I have pictures that show this but they also show my new sleeve design so I can't publish them on a forum. In future i'll take some pictures without some of the sleeves inserted.

I've said before that there is a chance the N1 blocks have a higher nickel content, but you'd need a chemical engineer to prove this.

They may have also improved their casting techniques to remove some porosity a little, but thats more of a hope on my account than anything else. I haven't modified enough blocks to form a propper baseline yet. The porosity is still there in an N1 block, especially around the bottoms of the cylinders where they join into the material surrounding the main bearing saddles. This is part of the reason grout filling helps stabilise the block so much.

[Fat32gtr]

So a RRR block would come under the same category as a standard block? How are they with regards to cylinder walls, I'm guessing they are the same? Not to mention overley priced.

Thanks for your comments it's actually making me think twice about buying. I might just end up using the standard block and getting it checked out and weighing up my options.

[Fat32gtr]

Nismoid, when you say doing the right oil modifications you mean the section under this forum oil control mods for drag and drift?

Oil feeds, returns, high flow pump sump?

[Sinista32]

The RRR is different. It was designed and built to be raced and rebuilt. The thicker walls alow it to be be bored out multiple times

From a respected memeber out of the archives

Quote

all blocks are standard 86 mm
z tune and 400 r motors have been bored out to 87mm.

I did find a few years ago a page where a stock (05U), a N1 (24U) and a GT (RRR) blocks had been cut away

The figures went something like this
Stock had 3 mm of meat on each side of the bore (92mm outer point to outer point)
N1 had 5 mm of meat (96mm)
GT had 6 mm of meat (98mm)

End Quote

[Fat32gtr]

These figures sound good enough to me. Do you think this source is reliable? I'm still in two minds about it. I'll have to talk to a few mechanics and see what my best options are. Even if it is getting an n1 block and partial grout filling it for structural strength then hopefully ill have no problems.

[Piggaz]

The RRR is different. It was designed and built to be raced and rebuilt. The thicker walls alow it to be be bored out multiple times

From a respected memeber out of the archives

Quote

all blocks are standard 86 mm

z tune and 400 r motors have been bored out to 87mm.

I did find a few years ago a page where a stock (05U), a N1 (24U) and a GT (RRR) blocks had been cut away

The figures went something like this

Stock had 3 mm of meat on each side of the bore (92mm outer point to outer point)

N1 had 5 mm of meat (96mm)

GT had 6 mm of meat (98mm)

End Quote

I think that was me! Haha.

I've never been able to find that page again. I should have taken a screen shot!

[R31Nismoid]

Numbers sound about right, but think about it - they don't really mean anything N1 vs Stock as no one has ever split/cracked a bore @ 350rwkw (let alone 450rwkw) unless its one of the following:

1. Worst tune in the world and it detonating it's head off.

2. Worst bottom end assembly in the world leading to a rod coming undone and exiting @ 8,000rpm.

Both of which if they occur, N1 block isn't going to make a difference as you'll have a gaping hole on the side of it regardless

Anyway - I've given you info for one side, your call on what you do with it good sir (after more researching perhaps)!

[Sinista32]

If it was me chasing your intended power goals I would go a seasoned standard block and have it built well by a reputable builder.

Save the money from purchasing a good unmolested 2nd hand stock block and put it into the build.

Crank/Collar, Oil pump and sump.