Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just thought I'd share where I installed my boost and oil guages in my s2 after lots of scratching of the head. I wanted a factory look without guages hanging off pillars or sitting on dashes etc creating unwanted attention

I ended up removing the ashtray, made a plate covered in vinyl which looks almost factory and after lots of grinding they fit perfect

Unfortunately I can't post a pic for you guys maybe someone can for me if interested

Thanks

:banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429692-stagea-guage-install-location/
Share on other sites

5mm Mdf cut to size and shaped, then drilled with hole saw

Broke one plate because there's no 'meat' left once drilled

Glued vinyl on, then with a dremel had to shave the top and bottom inside the ash tray hole about 5 mm so the guages would slide in

I was gonna just silcone the the back edges of the plate

But because it was cut so tight it holds really when I pushed it in from the front

Very neat install - I have scored a nice dash top three gauge holder but I have 5 (may be 6) 60mm gauges and was going to put the rest in the aircond vent but I'd quite like to keep that so I will probably copy your example but also cut out the cigarette lighter (no smoking car!).

If you cut the cigarette lighter out I'm not sure how you will finish it off? I've seen online cup holders that replace the clock on the dash.

The guages are 52mm and no problems with depth only height which was grinded slightly with a dremel

gonna get on this - was thinking of a carbon wrap for the whole center console so that should finish it off nicely - thought about getting rid of cigarette lighter but its too handy for phone charging :)

now to find a second hand gear selector surround to experiment with

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...