Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I have just been offered a job with a car allowance, so it's time to go car shopping! I have been eyeing off the Ford Utes as I want something comfortable as i will be doing a lot of miles, and a lot of grunt because why not. I also need to be able tow my race car, so that leaves the Holden's out as they don't have the towing capacity.
So, I'm down to two choices, a brand new XR6t or a Used F6 with low miles (09-10). What are the major differences between these two cars? From what I understand, when the new F6 came out it had brembos, better interior and a bigger turbo/injectors. Does the new XR6t have any new features that compete with these? Did both cars come out with the ZF auto? By the looks of it they are both in the same price range, what do you think is the better car?
I found a pretty clean F6 with low kms on Carsales, do you think it's a better buy than a new xr6?

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Ford-Performance-Vehicles-F6-2009/SSE-AD-1029023/?Cr=17&sdmvc=1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429806-used-f6-ute-or-new-xr6t-ute/
Share on other sites

The holdens have the same tow capacity as thes vehicles you listed. ALL are rated @ 1,600kg.

Personally, for my next daily, I will be getting a BMW X5 second hand.

2006/7, leather interior, euro build quality, 6sp auto, 165kw / 500nm Turbo Diesel straight 6 (can flash tune them to 180kw / 600nm). They are currently going for around $35k to $40k with anywhere from 90k to 120k. And being a diesel, it will just keep going and going.

Pefect for a comfortable cruiser that can most certainly tow whatever you throw at it. Similar year model Audi Q7's are for similar coin.

Edited by Tonba

Hi guys, I have just been offered a job with a car allowance, so it's time to go car shopping! I have been eyeing off the Ford Utes as I want something comfortable as i will be doing a lot of miles, and a lot of grunt because why not. I also need to be able tow my race car, so that leaves the Holden's out as they don't have the towing capacity.

So, I'm down to two choices, a brand new XR6t or a Used F6 with low miles (09-10). What are the major differences between these two cars? From what I understand, when the new F6 came out it had brembos, better interior and a bigger turbo/injectors. Does the new XR6t have any new features that compete with these? Did both cars come out with the ZF auto? By the looks of it they are both in the same price range, what do you think is the better car?

I found a pretty clean F6 with low kms on Carsales, do you think it's a better buy than a new xr6?

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Ford-Performance-Vehicles-F6-2009/SSE-AD-1029023/?Cr=17&sdmvc=1

Trannie is the same as far as I know.

Depends on how many horsepowers you want as to whether the upgrades are worthwhile. Stocker cant be tuned to go pretty hard.

Also there was a recent run of limited edition utes with upgrades to interior etc. May be worth looking for one of them as an option.

The poverty pack xr6 interior isnt brilliant but you may be able to get a lux pack. Gives you leather, 19" rims, satnav and doof doof. Or just get leather if you want.

Both come with the some ZF auto. The F6 has bigger turbo, cooler, injectors and can make close to 300rwkw with just a tune. The F6 also comes with brembo's better interior and some other bits n pieces.

The new XR6T has a bigger center screen with satnav as standard I think. Both are awesome to tow with.

Correct me if I'm wrong but the XR might use more fuel as the smaller turbo would be on boost more than the 3540 in the F6.

I'd probably go with the F6 as the Brembo's would be nice to tow with. Plus it's a better car all round.

  • 3 weeks later...

Over on the XR6 forums I've heard the FG's are known to have a number of issues. do you think it would be a risky purchase buying an F6 or XR6t out of warranty?

Would only be looking at something with under 30,000 kms, but I don't want to buy a lemon!

get the xr6t and upgrade to brembos.

any idea what the brembos would be worth?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
×
×
  • Create New...