Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no...but it does make spark plug changes sooooo much easier :rofl:

hell yeah, depending on the particular intake / car some other stuff may have to be moved around (battery??)to accomodate the repositioned tb

but it would be worth it just for the better accesss to plugs/ignition coils

When the AUD was trading at USD55c and Greddy and Nismo plenums were extremely expensive a cut and shut might have made sense to someone.

Today you can buy a buckchoy front facing plenum for a round of drinks.

hopefully the quality will have improved with time, id be annoyed if i spent hours fitting up a china intake just to have the bastard leak on me

It's not mines but I got the picture online. The one below is my friend car. Rb25. He literally beats his car. Drifting, burning out and he also daily the car. No problems so far. 3rd year it's like that

Did he notice significant or any improvement at all?

Maybe we need a pro and cons list.

pros

less pipe work

easier to change plugs

cons

unknown effect on air distribution

better chance of a defect

then it's just a matter of weighing it up.

  • Like 1

I guess the best way is if someone goes on dyno with normal plenum and then does the C&S job and see difference. Highly doubt there would be any volunteers.

I also add to SUPERBEN's con list that it could lean cylinders out although we have no proof of this thus far

sigh.

Don't worry mate, I agree with your sentiments exactly.

If people want to screw up their cylinder balance that's their prerogative. It is just a big flashing RUN AWAY sign if I see a car like that, I instantly know the owner has taken many other shortcuts.

Mostly I just feel sorry for the car. Nissans deserve better.

but bro, my mate Habib said it would be fully sik and give me 20kw more powah!

how can you argue with THAT.

but bro, a bunch of internet people just told me it wouldn't work with no factual evidence to back up their claims..

how can you argue with that?

reading through some toyota forums and they have the same arguments on there about the old 7m intake and the jz ffp...now it looks to me the JZ just put the throttle body on the front of the plenum...there was no dramatic changes to the runners or anything its all the same shit...but the TB is on the front now....maybe they realized it makes no difference whatsoever where the TB is when the charge supplied is under pressure...Thats what a plenum is for to accumulate and store the intake charge..the cylinders will then suck in what they need, when they need it..maybe it would make a difference on a NA that has to draw the air in itself..but a boosted car has a plenum full of boosted air...there is plenty there for everyone...

now i imagine the internet theorists are now saying but the forced air is getting pushed to the back cylinders more which is causing it to lean out there...but by that theory one would have to assume the stock design is just forcing more air into the middle cylinders in which case the end cylinders would still be leaning out

So while I do agree it looks like balls...I'm not convinced it is a bad idea.....its just an ugly one and we have all been balls deep in an ugly one before..

  • Like 1

but bro, a bunch of internet people just told me it wouldn't work with no factual evidence to back up their claims..

how can you argue with that?

reading through some toyota forums and they have the same arguments on there about the old 7m intake and the jz ffp...now it looks to me the JZ just put the throttle body on the front of the plenum...there was no dramatic changes to the runners or anything its all the same shit...but the TB is on the front now....maybe they realized it makes no difference whatsoever where the TB is when the charge supplied is under pressure...Thats what a plenum is for to accumulate and store the intake charge..the cylinders will then suck in what they need, when they need it..maybe it would make a difference on a NA that has to draw the air in itself..but a boosted car has a plenum full of boosted air...there is plenty there for everyone...

now i imagine the internet theorists are now saying but the forced air is getting pushed to the back cylinders more which is causing it to lean out there...but by that theory one would have to assume the stock design is just forcing more air into the middle cylinders in which case the end cylinders would still be leaning out

So while I do agree it looks like balls...I'm not convinced it is a bad idea.....its just an ugly one and we have all been balls deep in an ugly one before..

I think thats the most plausible response on the topic thus far

The only down fall I see with a cut & shut is the way the air travels. If looking a stock manifold from the side, it makes a flow able loop from TB to head ports. No hard hitting junctions. When I see the cut & shut manifold, I see the air damning in the back before it starts making a loop around. Looks like extra work for the air flow. I think the Greddy version helped with that hiccup while gaining air volume for less restriction. But then again it still rams the back. If you also compare to Honda motors which are insanely mechanical marvels making a 100hp per liter N/A, it has the same style of engineering as a Greddy style manifold from factory. Just my thoughts. It does seem like a lot of work though to gain easier access to the plugs and coils. But I must admit it does look unique. First time I've seen that to be honest. But that is what is so cool about this engineering stuff with motors, it just might work better than a Greddy. It'd be awesome if someone had some dyno tests done between the different styles. Low, mid, and high end lost or gains.

but bro, a bunch of internet people just told me it wouldn't work with no factual evidence to back up their claims..

how can you argue with that?

reading through some toyota forums and they have the same arguments on there about the old 7m intake and the jz ffp...now it looks to me the JZ just put the throttle body on the front of the plenum...there was no dramatic changes to the runners or anything its all the same shit...but the TB is on the front now....maybe they realized it makes no difference whatsoever where the TB is when the charge supplied is under pressure...Thats what a plenum is for to accumulate and store the intake charge..the cylinders will then suck in what they need, when they need it..maybe it would make a difference on a NA that has to draw the air in itself..but a boosted car has a plenum full of boosted air...there is plenty there for everyone...

now i imagine the internet theorists are now saying but the forced air is getting pushed to the back cylinders more which is causing it to lean out there...but by that theory one would have to assume the stock design is just forcing more air into the middle cylinders in which case the end cylinders would still be leaning out

So while I do agree it looks like balls...I'm not convinced it is a bad idea.....its just an ugly one and we have all been balls deep in an ugly one before..

agree with this 100 percent..funny as..maybe its not worth doing..i agree with that....will it lean out cylinders..i highly doubt it, have a funny feeling you

have more problems with tapered plenums in that regard, but i have no factual evidence to back that up

cheers

darren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...