Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So this morning I went to drive to work and my car just gave up. I unplug the igniter and the air flow meter when ever I go away for a weekend.

So I plugged them back in and then started the car. It idled for a little bit and as soon as I put it in gear and went to take off it stalled.

Now it won't even turn over.

Any ideas?

I checked both the igniter and the airflow meter plugs. It's my daily so I'm pretty screwed without it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430484-car-wont-start/
Share on other sites

Left your lights on? :P

I had a bit of a scare this morning. My electric key wouldn't unlock the door so I had to do it the old fashion way which released the alarm. Had no idea how to turn it off without the key working but then it just worked :D Small scares.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430484-car-wont-start/#findComment-6975765
Share on other sites

Could still be a flat battery braaaaaaa. If it literally doesn't turn over at all, then either your starter motor is f**ked, the battery is dead, or a fuse/solenoid has shit itself somewhere. It's almost certainly nothing to do with the ignitor or AFM, unless it DOES turn over but just doesn't fire.

When you put the key in the ignition and turn it to start the car, describe EXACTLY EVERYTHING that happens - does it make a rattle/clicking sound? Does the engine turn over but not fire? Does it prime the fuel system?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430484-car-wont-start/#findComment-6975779
Share on other sites

No good man. Let's hope it's nothig major ! Summon Rob # He always seems to give great guidance / food for thought.

edit: I also had this similar issue couple of weeks ago. NRMA came out for 30 seconds to plug my alarm plug back on the battery hahaha I felt like an idiot.

Edited by RosieR34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430484-car-wont-start/#findComment-6975780
Share on other sites

Nah it has power you can hear it trying to turn over but it just doesn't grab. Lights 100% weren't on.

are you saying you can hear the starter spinning but not turning over the motor?

if this is the case turn it off then flick it straigh back on. sometimes will cause the pinion to push out as and grab the flywheel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430484-car-wont-start/#findComment-6975822
Share on other sites

Okay so when I turn the key I can hear it making the normal starting rev noise trying to start the engine.

But it just doesn't grab and start up. I have had a flat battery before and noticed it just makes a slight noise when that happens.

This is different. It's very similar to if you ran your car to empty and then tried to start it.

I do have a full tank of fuel though

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430484-car-wont-start/#findComment-6975846
Share on other sites

if you're getting a clicking noise, kinda hollow, then your starter is gone (happened to my mate) if all electronics work fine then your battery is also fine...next up would be spark plugs? no reason for them to randomly die but who knows, could happen? maybe put up a sound clip of you trying to start it? if you said it sounds like trying to start a car on empty tank then yeah, might be sparkies cos that's what mine sounded like when i needed to change them too.

though one more thing - check the loom connections to the battery, all terminals are secure and not wiggling - then grab the looms and give them a wiggle, a few times, try and start the car, and wiggle again. might be a loose connection somewhere.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430484-car-wont-start/#findComment-6975927
Share on other sites

Stop trying to start it and take it to a shop. You will risk detonation if it starts to flood the engine.

Okay so when I turn the key I can hear it making the normal starting rev noise trying to start the engine.

But it just doesn't grab and start up. I have had a flat battery before and noticed it just makes a slight noise when that happens.

This is different. It's very similar to if you ran your car to empty and then tried to start it.

I do have a full tank of fuel though

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430484-car-wont-start/#findComment-6975933
Share on other sites

Okay so when I turn the key I can hear it making the normal starting rev noise trying to start the engine.

But it just doesn't grab and start up. I have had a flat battery before and noticed it just makes a slight noise when that happens.

This is different. It's very similar to if you ran your car to empty and then tried to start it.

I do have a full tank of fuel though

Still didn't make it very clear lol....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430484-car-wont-start/#findComment-6975992
Share on other sites

Hahaha I was in a huge rush this morning so my mind was all over the place. It's kind of hard to describe a noise. Ill check the plugs again when I get home and also pull out the spark plugs and check them.

I can hear the fuel pump prime and then stop. But I'll pull a fuel line off and check that as well.

Anything else I should be checking as well?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430484-car-wont-start/#findComment-6976007
Share on other sites

i don't mean to sound like a dickhead (especially towards such a little sweetie as yourself, Dan), but you're still failing to answer the damned question lol :P

The engine "turning over" has nothing to do with it firing up - when you turn the key to the start position, does the starter motor turn the crankshaft successfully? I repeat - this has nothing to do with the engine firing, simply whether or not the starter is doing its job. If the battery is flat or if the starter motor has failed, the answer you'll be giving me here is "no".

When the key is turned to the final stage in the ignition (where it is supposed to start the engine), a few things should be happening - power is given to a small solenoid on the starter motor which causes the pinion gear on the starter motor's shaft to move out and engage with the flywheel. It then also gives power to the starter motor itself, causing it to turn the flywheel. If your battery has sufficient charge, these functions will still go ahead - the engine will "turn over".

Should the engine fail to fire as it should (and subsequently begin to run), the issue at hand will lie somewhere in the ignition system or fuel system (I'm not sure what will happen if the AFM is unplugged - will it not fire at all or run in some sort of limp mode?). Given you unplugged the AFM and ignitor, this is most likely where the fault lies - potential bad connection in the plugs (possibly from moisture as you suggested), or potential failure of one of these parts (possibly just bad luck when you plugged them back in).

While there are many many many things that can stop an engine from starting correctly, you should always start the investigation with things that have recently been fiddled with, especially if the car was running fine before you fiddled with them ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430484-car-wont-start/#findComment-6976035
Share on other sites

He means it wont fire.

So, basics guys, its spark or fuel.

you mean fluid lock? bust the head off?

Haha no pre-det. You would burn out your starter motor/flat battery before nearing hydrolock.

Dan by some electrical cleaner clean ignitor/afm my as well clean tb and cas sensor at the same time will get rid of moisture Charge the battery up give her another crack.

If its still no go it has to be spark or timing since you can here the pump prime.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430484-car-wont-start/#findComment-6976104
Share on other sites

Hey Troy,

So I don't know the difference in the noise between those two steps in the start up you are talking about. Ill have to wait until I get home this afternoon. Might try get a video of it and send it to you.

I'll post up here this afternoon around 6:30 when I get home and start getting my hands dirty. Hopefully I can sort it out before work tomorrow

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430484-car-wont-start/#findComment-6976126
Share on other sites

As per our sexting just now, you finally answered my question :P

Check AFM and ignitor plugs first - Do what Pat suggested and get some electrical contact cleaner to spray on the plugs and clean them out. Hopefully it's just moisture.

If that doesn't fix anything, check fuses. If the fuses look fine, then consider that by some unlucky chance either your AFM or ignitor shat itself at some stage through this adventure lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430484-car-wont-start/#findComment-6976187
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...