Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all , if your sick of fuel pumps threads go elsewhere .

As many know I've been searching and asking about suitable E85 EFI fuel pumps for road use and from what I've read/heard pumps like Bosch 044s Nismos may not live long lives because ethanol doesn't lubricate like petrol does . I like the Nismo R33 GTR pump but it's a lot of money to throw at a pump that may wear out in a few years .

The E85 pump that keeps popping up is this Walbro F90000267 which is a turbine pump and it's said to be very quiet .

At 450 lpm it's not short of flow though too much can be a problem fuel heat wise .

The other thing is that these pumps have the ability to drag high current at higher fuel pressures and this has caused problems at the tank lid terminals (R33) . Insight sells a gadget to get wiring into fuel tanks and I'll ask Scott about that one .

Is anyone here using this fuel pump and do you get fuel heating issues ?

A .

I have personally installed 5 or 6 of them, and sold many more without any complaints. They are almost silent if installed correctly, more so than the old 255's, and are specifically designed for e85 use. It's a no brainer imo, as I am sure many people have told you already.

Yes the fuel gets hot after a few hours on the dyno, but how is that the fault of the pump? It's the rail that is hot, why don't you look at super cooling the rail with liquid nitrogen or something. :P

Do you need the massive flow? Haven't used these specifically, but the likes of DW300 fuel pumps are quite fine with ethanol - quiet and all that good stuff and probably more suited to the amount of flow you need.

Walbro in-tank is $165, on a 45% off special - so normally easily over NZD$200: http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/fuel-system/walbro-fuel-pumps.html

But even then only $55 (~30%) more than:

http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/deatschwerks-fuel-pumps/dw300-intank-fuel-pump.html

Both are NZD$300 normal price.

Great price on the 300 there, much cheaper than my supplier, but then they never did like buying them in for me.

I sell the e85 Walbro's for $200, why would you bother with anything else at that price, especially if you plan to run ethanol at any percentage.

Very minor mods needed.

As in.. soldering.

Having had the fun of putting an 040, 044, GTR, DW301, and now the Walbro 460LPH pump, I can say they're all of equal difficulty to fit, and the DW300 and Walbro 460LPH pump are both equally quiet (silent compared the rest)

As in.. soldering.

Having had the fun of putting an 040, 044, GTR, DW301, and now the Walbro 460LPH pump, I can say they're all of equal difficulty to fit, and the DW300 and Walbro 460LPH pump are both equally quiet (silent compared the rest)

I needed to modify my stock cradle to fit the pump in tank, as the 460LPH pump is too big to fit in the same position. But again, very minor stuff, took 5 minutes.

Greg I'd like to hear your opinions of the DW301 and the Walbro 460 Ethanol pumps .

This is a thread from NASIOC that has the performance data for the DW301 .

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2102897

It sounds like a good thing and DW seems to have gone all out SAE testing them on E100 .

I like the 13.5v table figures and if not pushing more than about 60 psi the current draw should be easy on an elec system with adequate wiring .

There is a fitting kit to suit their 240SX and this may make it virtually an easy install on a GTS25Ts bracket .

I had a look at the standard wiring in my R33 since the back seat was out and the wire size is not brilliant , it's really small at the FPCM plug .

Thanks for the tip Lith , cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03

The solution? Your questioning it. Looking for ways around it. Just search, see what the eons have done before you. E85 is so well covered these days its not funny. Drop in a big in tank, silent, easy to install, no fuss pump. Oh wait, you want to make a diamond from dogshit. Go right ahead.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...