Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all , if your sick of fuel pumps threads go elsewhere .

As many know I've been searching and asking about suitable E85 EFI fuel pumps for road use and from what I've read/heard pumps like Bosch 044s Nismos may not live long lives because ethanol doesn't lubricate like petrol does . I like the Nismo R33 GTR pump but it's a lot of money to throw at a pump that may wear out in a few years .

The E85 pump that keeps popping up is this Walbro F90000267 which is a turbine pump and it's said to be very quiet .

At 450 lpm it's not short of flow though too much can be a problem fuel heat wise .

The other thing is that these pumps have the ability to drag high current at higher fuel pressures and this has caused problems at the tank lid terminals (R33) . Insight sells a gadget to get wiring into fuel tanks and I'll ask Scott about that one .

Is anyone here using this fuel pump and do you get fuel heating issues ?

A .

I have personally installed 5 or 6 of them, and sold many more without any complaints. They are almost silent if installed correctly, more so than the old 255's, and are specifically designed for e85 use. It's a no brainer imo, as I am sure many people have told you already.

Yes the fuel gets hot after a few hours on the dyno, but how is that the fault of the pump? It's the rail that is hot, why don't you look at super cooling the rail with liquid nitrogen or something. :P

Do you need the massive flow? Haven't used these specifically, but the likes of DW300 fuel pumps are quite fine with ethanol - quiet and all that good stuff and probably more suited to the amount of flow you need.

Walbro in-tank is $165, on a 45% off special - so normally easily over NZD$200: http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/fuel-system/walbro-fuel-pumps.html

But even then only $55 (~30%) more than:

http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/deatschwerks-fuel-pumps/dw300-intank-fuel-pump.html

Both are NZD$300 normal price.

Great price on the 300 there, much cheaper than my supplier, but then they never did like buying them in for me.

I sell the e85 Walbro's for $200, why would you bother with anything else at that price, especially if you plan to run ethanol at any percentage.

Very minor mods needed.

As in.. soldering.

Having had the fun of putting an 040, 044, GTR, DW301, and now the Walbro 460LPH pump, I can say they're all of equal difficulty to fit, and the DW300 and Walbro 460LPH pump are both equally quiet (silent compared the rest)

As in.. soldering.

Having had the fun of putting an 040, 044, GTR, DW301, and now the Walbro 460LPH pump, I can say they're all of equal difficulty to fit, and the DW300 and Walbro 460LPH pump are both equally quiet (silent compared the rest)

I needed to modify my stock cradle to fit the pump in tank, as the 460LPH pump is too big to fit in the same position. But again, very minor stuff, took 5 minutes.

Greg I'd like to hear your opinions of the DW301 and the Walbro 460 Ethanol pumps .

This is a thread from NASIOC that has the performance data for the DW301 .

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2102897

It sounds like a good thing and DW seems to have gone all out SAE testing them on E100 .

I like the 13.5v table figures and if not pushing more than about 60 psi the current draw should be easy on an elec system with adequate wiring .

There is a fitting kit to suit their 240SX and this may make it virtually an easy install on a GTS25Ts bracket .

I had a look at the standard wiring in my R33 since the back seat was out and the wire size is not brilliant , it's really small at the FPCM plug .

Thanks for the tip Lith , cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03

The solution? Your questioning it. Looking for ways around it. Just search, see what the eons have done before you. E85 is so well covered these days its not funny. Drop in a big in tank, silent, easy to install, no fuss pump. Oh wait, you want to make a diamond from dogshit. Go right ahead.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...