Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I picked up a helmet today - Revolution Racegear currently has a sale till the 26th June or something so I got a full face graphic (riced heh) for $135 supposedly down from $220.

Anyway, now the next thing to do is the secondary bonnet restraint.

I spent a fustrating 10 minutes just staring at the bonnet closed to see how I could do this and could not come up with anything.

I know you can use webbing strap and then tie it to the toe hook, but I couldn't see where you could attach this to the bonnet?

I prefer if there could be some form of "hook" fixed to the bottom of the bonnet, that I could latch onto the frame - IE have it latched all the time to a) prevent bonnet opening even on the road and B) to take a thief a few more sec to open the bonnet.

I tried thinking of how to do this too, but there isn't many holes in the bottom of the bonnet and not many place for a hook (that you can reach with the bonnet semi-closed (ie lever pulled but still latched).

Does anyone here have any pictures of how they've done it? If it helps its for a S1.5 R33.

Thanks :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43067-secondary-bonnet-restraint/
Share on other sites

Hey fooey, the most permanent way to do the secondary restraint is bonnet pins

Temporary option is to use something like rope or a belt to hold it in place. I've done both, basically you run it through one of the holes in the bonnet reinforcing and then down through something below, I used the whole front bumper. sorry no pics that explain in better but its pretty straightforward.

Another neat way is to use some braided stainless steel cable. Attach one end to the radiator support mount, then other to the latch on the bonnet.

Then to connect the two pieces, have a loop on one ned of braided line, then the other just have a clip. Easier way is to just have clip on the end of the braided wire attached to the radiator support mount, then clip it to the male part of the bonnet latch, clip it up, then close the boonet...you only need the braided wire to be about 4-5" long.

best way for a road car

i found

was use the old compliance seat belt

just cut the belt and attach the latch to the radiator crossmember near the headlight and brap the buck around the bonnet

so easy and then you just unclip it like a seat belt

neat and practical

pete

...ummm no pics, but stainless steel braid, with the approved fitting that gets clamped onto the braid is good for HUGE loads, I cant remember what the tensile strength is, but needless to say the equivelent road speed from a bonnet lifting would be way higher then any car can go. It will easily pass the scrutineering for a CAMS Supersprint etc

I know where to get it in Sydney, but down here in Melbourne ill be struggling a little, hardware stores sell the braid, but i doubt they will sell the fittings that clamp on the braid after you have doubled the braid back on itslef to create a loop.

As for the clips just a stainless clamp or one of the clamps off an old / expired harness that clips to the eye bolt ... i need to get one for the my bonnet before July 8, so if anyone in melb wants i can probably get 3 or 4 made up by a stainless braid place i pick out of the yellow pages, may even work out a buk fitty cheaper if i get a few.

I was thinking of using one of those "toggle" bolts and either:

a) bolt a hook (to hook into a loop of cable on the radiator mount)

B) bolt a loop (to hook into a hook on the radiator mount)

Roy, if your method works (as I'm having doubts how to do my way) I don't mind going for one too, as long as you inform me what other parts I need to get (if any) to complete the job.

Hey,

I picked up a helmet today - Revolution Racegear currently has a sale till the 26th June or something so I got a full face graphic (riced heh) for $135 supposedly down from $220.

Thanks :D

I had a bit of a look there yesterday myself and cant believe that helmets can get up to $2000.

Alan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...