Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

Thought I would start a build page for my project

Fj Holden with a RB 25det

post-118613-13772661798743_thumb.jpg

Plan so far is to rebuilt the engine with fairly standard internals, maybe a good set of forged slugs, balancing, a bit of porting new set of bolts to hold it all together, possibly some new cams, i already have a good greddy manifold copy, still need to buy exhaust manifold and gtx 3076 turbo and still not decided what ecu to use.

The front end I have is a new Rodtech unit with adjustable coil overs and a decent set of brakes.

post-118613-13772660147352_thumb.jpg

So far it's been fairly straight forward, major problems that I can see at the moment are the clutch master cylinder is fairly close to the inlet plenum and the throttle body flange is a bit too close to the inner guard so will have to cut and re position the flange.

The black spots on the firewall are where the vt brake booster and master cylinder and R33 clutch master cylinder will be mounted.

I will be recessing the firewall approximately 2" so the engine will be sitting back a bit further than in the picture to allow for the radiator and thermo fans

That's it for now

Keep you all posted with my progress

Cheers

Paul

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430726-fj-with-rb25det-build-page/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi Winter

I would be interested in finding out if he has a flip front on it?

A fella I know over in Melbourne is having a few dramas etc with the brake master cylinder and the inlet manifold.

Be good to get some info from your dad for this mate of mine

Haven't tacked the mounts into place yet, recently had a new addition to the family so it is sort of on hold at the moment.

I do know that I will need to recess the firewall around 2-3 inches to give clearance for the thermo fan and radiator to be fitted in front of the engine

That is what is controlling where the engine will be mounted

I am not sure what you are going to be doing about your brakes but many fJ folk use the vt common whore pedal assembly

The assembly will hit on the inlet manifold and that's why I asked winter what his dad did and didn't really get the answer we were looking for

Paul

Ah I see

I am fitting the rb25det and licensing here wanted the twin system like in the vt so if you loose the front or rear they don't affect the other.

Also you may not have enough volume to accurate the Vt brakes properly.

Licensing here in Wa like to see you use the complete brake set up from a car, mainly because if you don't then you need to brake test it.

I am using the vt pedal box and vr front and vt rear discs and they still want to do a brake test.

Have you spoken to NT licensing and a brake specialist regarding your setup.

Also you will be needing a sump from a GQ pootroll I think it is, they came out with the RB 30 petrol and a RD 28 Diesel engine and have a rear bowl sump which you will have to modify a bit due to the bowl sitting down a fair bit but a shit load easier than making up a new sump.

And

I think that using the hr front end will raise your engine up an extra 120 mm or so.

The front end that I have is a very similar profile to the original FJ front end allowing the engine to sit that 120 mm lower than the hr front end

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...