Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I've been having some issues with getting over 1 bar on the greddy profec b-spec 2. At one stage it was getting over 1 bar but did not do it very well

(misfires, flat spots etc). Now I have reverted back to the stock boost control system on my R33 GTR with -9s (Garrett 1 bar actuators) and it hits 19psi with no issues.

I'm sure if I spent some more time on it, the ebc will eventually work fine. The funny thing is, it was boosting over 1 bar

on one day and with nothing else changed it wasn't on the next drive. All hose clamps, vac lines etc have been replaced.

The reason I bought it in the first place was to chase extra response over the actuator setup. Supposedly these EBCs are capable of

keeping actuators shut until desired boost (which I set at 3psi under max boost to prevent spiking) and bust open at that point.

So my question is, how far behind (in terms of response) would off the shelf garrett 1 bar actuators be, compared to an ebc setup correctly?

Or allow me to ask, will the actuator setup alone allow me to have at least 1 bar of boost by 3700-3800rpm like the properly working -9 setups are getting?

My setup includes stock 33gtr dumps, 2x 2.75" to 3" front pipe, 3" straight pipe and 3.5" catback. Stock airbox, adjustable cam gears and will be tuned on

Haltech platinum pro with or without afm pending.

The car is not tuned yet (stock ecu) and feels quite laggy. It almost feels like a -5 setup atm. The ignition timing is currently set at 20-22 degrees BTDC

getting a pickup from a high tension lead on #1 cylinder. There seems to be 2 degrees variance depending on which timing light I use.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430927-adjustable-actuators-vs-ebc/
Share on other sites

Doesn't sound right at all with your ebc. Ive got the same thing and I hold 19psi just fine on a 15psi actuator. Are you sure its not faulty?

I see a problem with running only on wastegate and that's from heatsoak. When the actuator gets hot how well will it still behave? Would the spring soften up at all and open prematurely? I don't know if they're affected but I know I'd want a boost controller there so I can have full control of what I want my curve to do.

Also thats alot of boost you're running untuned.

I almost suspect that I've plumbed the controller incorrectly..

I never imagined actuators suffering from decreased performance through heatsoak?

Yes, it does seem like a fair bit and I may drop it down 2 psi through the actuators before heading to the tuner to get AFR checked and timing double checked.

Do remember R31Nismoid mentioning that 18psi on -9s with a stock ECU is safe, given that the standard pump is up to the task or have aftermarket fuel pump.

I have a Nismo drop in and have rewired it already. Seems to be spiking to 19psi but doesn't hold that boost to redline.

To draw it out clearly, I have blocked the hoses from plenum to factory boost solenoid with bolts and clamped the ends. Removed said boost solenoid and left it unplugged at the loom.

Had a spare vacuum tube hard line so chopped it close to the fitting and ran the boost pressure source there as can be seen in the diagram (I think this is where my problem lies?)

Other side of Greddy boost solenoid was plumbed into a Tee and equally diverted into the actuators.

The vacuum control tube was also blocked off at the end of the hard line and at the bov return side.

Legend:

Red // are items removed

Red dots are blocked with bolt and clamps in the line.

Blue rectangle is greddy solenoid

vac_zpscfda9d0e.jpg

One common drama with RB's is the vacuum hoses at the back of the engine cracking with age and leaking (on the far right side where it says 'clamp'. Might pay to pull the hoses off under the manifold where they originate from and run a replacement hose straight over the engine to test for a leak in the standard hoses.

Worth a try anyway!

Although knowing you had your head off recently you may have picked up on that if it was an issue.

So the top part of the pic where the 2 red dots are. These two hoses need to be joined together?


Because both were blocked off with a bolt in each when I still had the boost controller in.

Sorry, not too sure what you mean by the last part.

But after doing some more research, looks like we might be onto something.

Since my system runs internal actuators, I'm to use the COM port for the actuators and the NO port for the pressure source.

The instructions do say to unblock ALL plastic plugs on the valve unit and makes no mention of plugging back up the unused NC port which is used for external gate.

Some say this is for the solenoid to bleed the air that the gate is seeing.

So I will remove the plug on the NC and hope for the best!

The two hoses that join to the stock boost controller CAN NOT be joined and have to be blocked, other wise it will bleed off boost from the signal line as one of the lines runs back to the intake pipe of the back turbo

I pick up the signal from the hose that come off the plenum run it to the boost solinoid which I put next to the steering shaft then run the wastegate line back up to the steel line that runs around the back of the head to the wastegates, which means I don't have to muck around the turbos and there is less heat on the intake side and the controller is near impossible to see

I can appreciate your method, but doesn't that mean the waste gate lines will be a hell of a lot longer?

So given that the two hoses going to the stock solenoid are blocked - which they were, would it be ok to block the signal

Line leading back to the intake as well? When I had the greddy setup on there, I had blocked it from the intake pipe nipple

And from the hard line side too obviously.

And would the location of where the actuators gets its standard feed from (that water and air divider thing on the back of the head with

Two fittings) be an appropriate location for a pressure source for the new solenoid?

Better having the wastegate line longer then the signal line, either way one is going to be longer

Yeah that's sound ok, just block anything that's not used so if you ever want to reconnect it its not got dust and shit in it

Yeah that works, only thing I would do is bypass the T by picking up signal at the plenum and running a hose to the steel one that goes around the back of the head, in the pic it's at the top on the right side where it has "clamp" and four arrows running off it

Sounds good, for the time being I'll stick to feeding the solenoid off the standard wastegate feed location. If that doesn't work, I'll look into picking it up from the plenum.

I'll report my findings back here once I'm done and will also comment on my experience between running straight off the actuators and having a boost controller keeping the gates shut for as long as possible.

Cheers for all your help guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...