Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just did some research on Nissan Techline and discovered the following:

  • Techline Consultants work within the After Sales Department
  • Employed by Nissan Motor Company Australia
  • Provide diagnostic & consultative support to the Nissan Dealership Network

Techline Consultant Key Responsibilities:

  • Delivering a professionalism process for all dealer technical issues & support the dealer network in delivering the highest levels of Customer Satisfaction & Fix it Right First (F1) time initiatives
  • Assist the Technical Training to Design & Develop training material and communicate with NML regarding Technical publications for the Australian market
  • Support the introduction of New Models and the unique technology through the supply of technical support, rectification & process control
  • Assist in the management of vehicle product problems - identification, investigation, definition, reporting, follow-up, dissemination of information and explanation
  • 2 months later...

Just did some research on Nissan Techline and discovered the following:

  • Techline Consultants work within the After Sales Department
  • Employed by Nissan Motor Company Australia
  • Provide diagnostic & consultative support to the Nissan Dealership Network

Techline Consultant Key Responsibilities:

  • Delivering a professionalism process for all dealer technical issues & support the dealer network in delivering the highest levels of Customer Satisfaction & Fix it Right First (F1) time initiatives
  • Assist the Technical Training to Design & Develop training material and communicate with NML regarding Technical publications for the Australian market
  • Support the introduction of New Models and the unique technology through the supply of technical support, rectification & process control
  • Assist in the management of vehicle product problems - identification, investigation, definition, reporting, follow-up, dissemination of information and explanation

Getting in contact with techline is almost impossible through any GTR dealer in WA. FFS Nissan

  • 4 months later...
On 3/30/2015 at 4:28 PM, charlie200 said:

For those NZ folks... I'm going to attempt the firmware update in Auckland through a GTR accredited Nissan dealer. I've been living with the low rpm lurch for a while now and isn't too big a deal, yet. Will be interesting to see how it goes - there's a tonne of these around town now so surely i'm not the first to approach them with this.

Im guessing you never got anywhere with it? I ended up selling my V36 because the lurch pissed me off. Its a shame, they are such awesome cars.

Hey @awsam,

Trust your supper problem is long gone now. However, how much reduction in power is experienced ? Any detail you can share will be great.

Thanks mate.

 

 

How did your firmware update go @charlie200?

Cheers

 

On 3/30/2015 at 4:28 PM, charlie200 said:

For those NZ folks... I'm going to attempt the firmware update in Auckland through a GTR accredited Nissan dealer. I've been living with the low rpm lurch for a while now and isn't too big a deal, yet. Will be interesting to see how it goes - there's a tonne of these around town now so surely i'm not the first to approach them with this.

Edited by Elcid
spelling
31 minutes ago, Elcid said:

Hey @awsam,

Trust your supper problem is long gone now. However, how much reduction in power is experienced ? Any detail you can share will be great.

Thanks mate.

Cars been a dream since.
Slight delay in the milliseconds off the line and the point at which it changes gears is slightly different from memory.

  • 1 month later...
On 21 May 2014 at 8:10 PM, awsam said:

It's almost been 2 weeks after having the update applied. The car runs 90% better, which for anyone who has the same problem is incredible!

The grunt is still mostly there, and the acceleration delay feels 50% reduced. There is no more bucking, hiccups or stuttering. A couple of times i've felt maybe 3 small bucks (like 5% of previous strength) at low gear, but only ever once while driving.

There is no more hesitation from a stopped start at all.

The anti slip control seems to be less sensitive now also.

I highly suggest anyone experiencing my issues with a 2008 V36 sedan have the update applied, even if it's just so you can sell it for more. Main North Nissan charged me $190. If you're in Adelaide, ask for Josh.

Andrew Taylor from Infiniti Melbourne was the man who made it all happen, top guy, went above and beyond for no reward other than the gratitude.

I'm so happy it's fixed, so incredibly happy. Now we can actually sell it for what it's worth :P

How can I get this update in Sydney?

who do I go to?

ive asked Infiniti Sydney and they said they can't do it and I've asked a couple of other GTR dealerships and they also can't do it. 

3 hours ago, moleman_1 said:

How can I get this update in Sydney?

who do I go to?

ive asked Infiniti Sydney and they said they can't do it and I've asked a couple of other GTR dealerships and they also can't do it. 

Don't know what else I could tell you that might help.
Im in adelaide, bugged Infiniti Melb for a while. They facilitated getting the update from japan. Which was meant to be sent to Adelaide. Nissan refused, instead held the update and sent it to TECH LINE. GTR dealership in Adelaide connected a laptop to my car. A person from TECH LINE in sydney did the update/config remotely.
Andrew Taylor from Infiniti Melbourne was the legend or helped me out in 2014.

8 hours ago, awsam said:

Don't know what else I could tell you that might help.
Im in adelaide, bugged Infiniti Melb for a while. They facilitated getting the update from japan. Which was meant to be sent to Adelaide. Nissan refused, instead held the update and sent it to TECH LINE. GTR dealership in Adelaide connected a laptop to my car. A person from TECH LINE in sydney did the update/config remotely.
Andrew Taylor from Infiniti Melbourne was the legend or helped me out in 2014.

If I send you a cable, would you be open to taking a dump of the ECU and send it back to me? You'll need a laptop with Windows on it.

  • Like 1
23 hours ago, awsam said:

Don't know what else I could tell you that might help.
Im in adelaide, bugged Infiniti Melb for a while. They facilitated getting the update from japan. Which was meant to be sent to Adelaide. Nissan refused, instead held the update and sent it to TECH LINE. GTR dealership in Adelaide connected a laptop to my car. A person from TECH LINE in sydney did the update/config remotely.
Andrew Taylor from Infiniti Melbourne was the legend or helped me out in 2014.

So I managed to get some info on throttle body programming which can potentially resolve the issue. Is that what you had done awsam?

On 13 September 2016 at 2:23 PM, awsam said:

Don't know what else I could tell you that might help.
Im in adelaide, bugged Infiniti Melb for a while. They facilitated getting the update from japan. Which was meant to be sent to Adelaide. Nissan refused, instead held the update and sent it to TECH LINE. GTR dealership in Adelaide connected a laptop to my car. A person from TECH LINE in sydney did the update/config remotely.
Andrew Taylor from Infiniti Melbourne was the legend or helped me out in 2014.

Also do you know the number for techline Sydney?

  • 5 months later...

Tried contacting josh Kolinac from main north Nissan. He replied and said he was going to have a look as the update is stored on an older consult which is now with their IT department. But now he hasn't replied in almost 2 weeks...

stuttering issue is getting worse 

  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/03/2017 at 5:49 PM, awsam said:

Give it a week and call em.

You haven't had any issues since the update right? He kinda scared me a little when he said they don't take any responsiblity if the patch damages the car. How could it possibly damage the car?

Still have the car, haven't had a single problem since. 

They told me the same thing. At that point my V36 was near undrivable, and i'd never be able to sell it so...

They told me they hooked it to a laptop, and someone from Tech Line configured it remotely from Sydney. Beyond that I have no other info for ya.
10/10 would do again.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...