Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Brakes are on, Rims are on. Looks angry as f**k with the 123S's, Brake lines are on the way, Bit of a dabble in the engine bay here and there, Tidy up bits and pieces and we should be ready to fire up! Stay tuned

Not just yet, I'm trying to get most of the useless crap done at the end, Mainly I want it started and moving under its own power rather then being pushed around. Will post pics when they do go on eventually

Was supposed to be ready in May, So not sure what's going on.Havn't had the time to go in and find out. lately due to work, As far as im aware it still only needs fuel pump, fuel reg, and fluids to start..

Went in Saturday, Another 3 weeks is when work recommences on my project. So I imagine it'll only take a week to finish it all up to tuning stage, theres f**k all to be done really. So getting excited

I can't believe you're still waiting ...

I pulled out before Racewars here in Perth back in April. So he had to take on other projects in the meantime to keep work flowing through unhindered, No ones fault but my own really. Still extremely busy so it's getting around 8-10 hours on it a week from here. Better then nothing but it's getting very close.

hey mate nice build do you know if you can use a na neo cam agle sensor on the gtr 32 head.

it would be nice if you could get a good picture of the aac hoses they have used its all a bit confusing to many pipes ha.

  • 1 month later...

Couple update photos, Fair bit has been done, Mainly Radiator, Killswitch/Isolator in bay, Fuel Reg, Fan shrouding, all bits and pieces and finishing touches up , Engine bay is just about complete, So very close. Couple porn shots to keep people excited. Forgot to get a picture after we popped the new Nissan GTR Ornament plate I bought on the engine covers, It absolutely just sets the finishing touch off in the bay.
sJMlW7B.jpg
RPK08lU.jpg

g7X5R9P.jpg
X2kFhwU.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Well we had her started up for the first time, And got oil pressure etc, Everything went perfect started up first shot. Once I figure out how to get my videos up on the forums I'll chuck a short clip I got

Here have some more pics. Street tested today, Car still kicks over first shot on e85 everytime, Even after not being started for a week which is awesome. Hoping to get some run in k's on it sometime early in the new year when I'm not yolofifo'd , still working on getting the startup vid on here, But cant seem to embed a facebook video tried everything. :|

UCJM80v.jpg
4ADr7kc.jpg
7sjZKZl.jpg
DWmkBxe.jpg
BmyrbgX.jpg
0yxXowE.jpg
VnsqgIj.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...