Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My mistake gents
Not 2in ID, yes the od is actually 1.9in hence the confusion
Weld els measure differently than regular pipe
Medium runner manifolds (typical manifolds you see like 6boost/full race etc) are 1 1/4" weld els but have an inside diameter of 1.44in (od 1.66in)

Mine was built with "large runners" 1 1/2" weld els
Which have an inside diameter of 1.66in (od 1.9in)
Sorry for the confusion there. But this thing is just massive next to the full race we have sitting around its so much tighter together with the larger runners.

It's also not thinwall like someone said
This is stainless steel 304 schedule 10 pipe

It's like the 6boost but it's stainless not mild steel and larger runners

Edited by R32N00B

what i meant to say is pipe measures differently than tubing.... tubing is measured OD where pipe is measured ID.....

1.25" pipe has a 1.25" ID (on schedule 80 pipe) the OD stays 1.66" so schedule 40 pipe will have a larger ID and schedule 10 even larger. Thats why my 1.5" pipe has an ID of 1.66".... it only has an ID od 1.5" on schedule 80 pipe....

hope this makes sense

Makes sense. It was clear that it is huge, as it takes up all the room between the engine and, well, everything else on that side of the bay!

I just said it looked like thinwall because the welds are more like the welds you see on tube. But given that you have used Sch10 pipe, which has only a 2.77mm wall thickness, that explains the welds. Not as thin as tube, but pretty thin for pipe, hence the welds end up looking wide and flat.

ya sch 10 is .109" (sorry im going imperial on you lol its what im used to here in the states)

schedule 10 pipe is PLENTY thick for manifold. as long as its built and welded/backpurged correctly it's the optimum thickness. Any thicker is a waste and will weigh quite a bit more, and also will have smaller diameter ID. At least this is my fabricators point of view. He hasnt had one crack yet and they're out getting all out hammered on a daily basis.

Edited by R32N00B

also as a note on the welds my guy likes to taper the "butts" of the pipe all the way to the ID. Typically they come tapered halfway in but he likes to taper it the entire way, that coupled with full backpurging allows for deep/full penetration.

How can it be off topic, people need to realise the stock manifold isn't the restriction it's made out to be. I must admit I was surprised with this result.

I did the recent fab work on it, the car is still restricted by a hollow 3 inch cat in the 3.5 inch exhaust, return flow cooler, and the Z32 afm still holding back the 4 inch intake. There would be much more in it if the gearbox could take it... Not too laggy either imo.

post-63525-0-67446700-1379808705_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-30525400-1379808715_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-67480400-1379808779_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...