Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My mistake gents
Not 2in ID, yes the od is actually 1.9in hence the confusion
Weld els measure differently than regular pipe
Medium runner manifolds (typical manifolds you see like 6boost/full race etc) are 1 1/4" weld els but have an inside diameter of 1.44in (od 1.66in)

Mine was built with "large runners" 1 1/2" weld els
Which have an inside diameter of 1.66in (od 1.9in)
Sorry for the confusion there. But this thing is just massive next to the full race we have sitting around its so much tighter together with the larger runners.

It's also not thinwall like someone said
This is stainless steel 304 schedule 10 pipe

It's like the 6boost but it's stainless not mild steel and larger runners

Edited by R32N00B

what i meant to say is pipe measures differently than tubing.... tubing is measured OD where pipe is measured ID.....

1.25" pipe has a 1.25" ID (on schedule 80 pipe) the OD stays 1.66" so schedule 40 pipe will have a larger ID and schedule 10 even larger. Thats why my 1.5" pipe has an ID of 1.66".... it only has an ID od 1.5" on schedule 80 pipe....

hope this makes sense

Makes sense. It was clear that it is huge, as it takes up all the room between the engine and, well, everything else on that side of the bay!

I just said it looked like thinwall because the welds are more like the welds you see on tube. But given that you have used Sch10 pipe, which has only a 2.77mm wall thickness, that explains the welds. Not as thin as tube, but pretty thin for pipe, hence the welds end up looking wide and flat.

ya sch 10 is .109" (sorry im going imperial on you lol its what im used to here in the states)

schedule 10 pipe is PLENTY thick for manifold. as long as its built and welded/backpurged correctly it's the optimum thickness. Any thicker is a waste and will weigh quite a bit more, and also will have smaller diameter ID. At least this is my fabricators point of view. He hasnt had one crack yet and they're out getting all out hammered on a daily basis.

Edited by R32N00B

also as a note on the welds my guy likes to taper the "butts" of the pipe all the way to the ID. Typically they come tapered halfway in but he likes to taper it the entire way, that coupled with full backpurging allows for deep/full penetration.

How can it be off topic, people need to realise the stock manifold isn't the restriction it's made out to be. I must admit I was surprised with this result.

I did the recent fab work on it, the car is still restricted by a hollow 3 inch cat in the 3.5 inch exhaust, return flow cooler, and the Z32 afm still holding back the 4 inch intake. There would be much more in it if the gearbox could take it... Not too laggy either imo.

post-63525-0-67446700-1379808705_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-30525400-1379808715_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-67480400-1379808779_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...