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Either put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and get someone to hold it or lock it against something or the preferrable option is to put a bolt through in one of the bellhousing bolt holes and put a large curved lever in the flywheel teeth and use the bolt you put in as the levering point.

Does that make sense?

Rattle gun torque will do the job.

Don't give out advice like this to someone asking for genuine advice.

Either put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and get someone to hold it or lock it against something or the preferrable option is to put a bolt through in one of the bellhousing bolt holes and put a large curved lever in the flywheel teeth and use the bolt you put in as the levering point.

Does that make sense?

This pretty much. A large flat screw-driver can sometimes work as well. Screw 2 longer bolts (use bolts that arent part of the gearbox install) and then use a pry-bar/screwdriver between the 2 bolts and into a tooth on the flywheel to stop it turning. It's a bit hard to explain on here but you should be able to work it out

Don't give out advice like this to someone asking for genuine advice.

This pretty much. A large flat screw-driver can sometimes work as well. Screw 2 longer bolts (use bolts that arent part of the gearbox install) and then use a pry-bar/screwdriver between the 2 bolts and into a tooth on the flywheel to stop it turning. It's a bit hard to explain on here but you should be able to work it out

Why? Theres nothing wrong with rattle gunning it as in reality thats how the majority of people and workshops would have done it and have not had any problems.

No way in hell would I do them up with a rattle gun. Important parts that you dont want to fly off and cut your legs in half should be put on by the book. 1/2" rattle guns these days are getting pretty good and seen as the flywheel bolt torque is around 145Nm, i wouldnt want to put a rattle gun that is capable of doing double that on there.

I would find it slightly more acceptable to do the engine damper bolt up with a rattle gun, but I always do this up with a torque wrench

I never said do it on the highest setting Ive always used the 200nm setting, I would think its common sense that you wouldnt be pumping it to 800nm setting as some of the guns do go up to.

how do you know its the '200Nm' setting though? Keep in mind that what the shops air pressure is will play a part in it.

All good, everyone has their own way. I was just giving my personal opinion on the matter

Given how much care proper mechanics put into torquing things up in stages, it is hard to believe that anyone could believe that you could get a reliable torque to any proper setting with a rattle gun. How many thumps after it "stops" moving do you give it? How long after the compressor stops running is it going to give you the same torque? All the way to the point where it switches back on? Just for 3 bolts?

so im guessing the torque setting is 145nm on rb20det? ill have to try the two bolt pry bar method. I cant get to my front balancer bolt without removing the radiator.. dont want to make the job more harder than it needs to be. I'll have to buy another torque wrench, mine doesnt go that high. im guessing putting in new bolts is the go? i was thinking of running arp bolts in there? Thanks.

You should be right to re-use the old ones. ARP ones arent terribly expensive as well though

142-152Nm is the torque setting (for RB26) but they should all be the same. I use the torque setting on my flywheel in my 25 anyway

Don't do them up with a rattle gun. That is not good advice at all- there's a specific torque for bolts (especially critical ones) for a reason, and the flywheel is one of those places you want to it the right way. Re-using the bolts should be ok (providing in good condition), recommend using locktite though. I will come around this weekend with a proper torque wrench and give you a hand to do them up properly if needed, pm me if that'll help you. Andrew

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