Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, my r32 (rb20) has a high flowed r33 turbo, front mount and a 3.5 inch cat back the actuator in the high flow is at 14psi.

I want a turbo that fully boosts by 2500 - 3000 ish and pulls harder than the high flow if I got it nistuned and bought a 3 inch full exhaust plus smaller turbo would that do it? Help me please or should I sell it and buy something else?

Edited by Barrellboy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

the nistune will help you out no matter what you do with Turbo's

There's a series of supporting mods you haven't mentioned in your post. So I assume you only have what's mentioned.

Just buying a smaller Turbo won't help by itself.

When you say buy something else you talking a completely different car ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/#findComment-7001734
Share on other sites

By something else I mean a different car probably a wrx

A mate took me for a drive in his sr20 180sx and it pulled much harder than my 32 and was coming on boost soo early like 2600ish.. he had pon cams, tune, fmic, 3 inch exh and injectors. Can I get that low response with a 20 mine comes on at 4200 ish and pulls no where near as hard as his 180

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/#findComment-7001748
Share on other sites

usually if its just a run off the mill highflow it probably isn't specced up to be responsive.. personally im not much for bitsa turbos. Do you have any exhaust leaks? what condition is the motor? ie compression. Can you get your hands on a stocker rb25 turbo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/#findComment-7001764
Share on other sites

I don't know the compression but it generally feels like it runs well and came from a good family who imported it and didnt drive it too hard ( I know this) no exhaust leaks either. I could buy a stocker 25 turbo off gum tree but that wouldn't get me close to the response of the sr20 would it? The sr20 also has the stocker t25 turbo...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/#findComment-7001778
Share on other sites

I think you'd need more cubes, RB30et would hammer.. just my opinion

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423299-sa-rb30et-engine-package-240kw-motor-hd-clutch-box-etc-2500ono/

Edited by AngryRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/#findComment-7001792
Share on other sites

a tune helps infinitely. Particularly if you are willing to lean on it a bit and push the boost, esp with an electronic boost controller.

take it to Garage 101 for a nistune on the ecu and tune. I doubt you will be disappointed. Per4manz are also a damn good turbo shop so unless that turbo was highflowed for a different vehicle in mind from the technician (i.e. R33) you will be good to go hard on not much more budget...

P.S. to get a car that pulls hard and makes full boost under 3000rpm is pretty much a holy grail (unachievable essentially) and will take a very good condition motor with a very good turbo setup and associated mods ($$$).

In an RB20, yeah, pretty much impossible.

Edited by jjman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/#findComment-7002124
Share on other sites

Would even worry bout a wrx, they are not even worth comparing, its like oranges and apples.

To get decent response witb rb20, get a electronic boot controller, a aftermarket ecu, nistune is good value for money, and budget and get a tune, the tuner can bring the boost on abit earlier with the electronic boost controller so that can help, and with the turbo situation go look for a hks 2530, can make up to 230-240 kw, with excellent response, or a hypergear or a highfliwed r33 with the op6 rear housing. Ive been through the whole situation before so if i were you id be going the hks 2530

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/#findComment-7002295
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...