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Barrellboy

By Barrellboy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted

That Kando housing is poo based on the many results of those that tried to use them...plus a quick look at the wastegate gases path

In what way? Needed a little wastegate porting but after that it performs excellently, well at least the T25 version does an I expect it would be virtually identical!?

Power and boost from the T25 version of the exact same turbo on an SR if you didn't see it in the Kando thread

post-11136-13782780405431_thumb.jpg

post-11136-13782780219509_thumb.jpg

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Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Have a good look at the Kando T3 housings. Theya re nothign alike the T25 housings. They are the sme as the woeful internal gate Trust housings from that era :(

Back in 2003 when I threw my TD06 on the RB20 every result was with the internal gate version of that turbo, inc on RB25s. If it wasnt for my mate telling me to trust him I would never have tried it...as the results of the internal gate vs external gate have always been chalk and cheese

Dan_J Veteran

Dan_J

Posted
Posted

when do you hit full boost?

flip your FMIC, run it near the rad for shorter piping and make up new piping like the 'plazmaman' (or what ever its called lol )piping kit its just a 180 deg mandrel bend cut off to suit and a 45deg or so - 400/500 rpms response

get adjustable cam gears advance intake and retard exhaust -400-500 rpms response

or get a hyper gear ss1

or do a rb20de+t

Hi, my r32 (rb20) has a high flowed r33 turbo, front mount and a 3.5 inch cat back the actuator in the high flow is at 14psi.

I want a turbo that fully boosts by 2500 - 3000 ish and pulls harder than the high flow if I got it nistuned and bought a 3 inch full exhaust plus smaller turbo would that do it? Help me please or should I sell it and buy something else?

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Hey guys sorry if this is off topic but i recently did a conpression test in my rb25 s1 results were as follows.

Cyl 1 - 168

Cyl 2 - 155

Cyl 3 - 168

Cyl 4 - 165

Cyl 5 - 162

Cyl 6 - 153

Is.this considered decent?

of course that's off topic! If car runs fine don't worry about engine. results seem fine. Keep on thrashing.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

At the end of the day an RB20 is what it is , short stroke smallish bore 2L six based on the dimensions of the old L20A . It's never going to be a stump puller that revs like a turbine , Nissans answer was a larger bore with a longer stroke topped by a head with larger ports and valves . 2.5 litres is simply far better use of the RB blocks real-estate than 2 litres .

In real terms the only simple answer in an R32 with a RB20 is to make the car as light as possible and make the gearing suit the engines power curve . Revs aren't a problem if the gearing is suitable because you stay in the usable rev range .

Roy what would happen if you used Evo RS gearing ie a 4.875 diff and a close ratio gear set ? Actually you mentioned R31's and it would be interesting to find out what gearing the Grp A R31s used especially as some of that stuff was made here in Aus . Some of it may have been a carry over from the DR30 era as well and they may have used Rally style direct 5th five speeds .

A .

jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
Posted

I think to sum up this thread for the OP would be to leave the car as is and throw injectors, tune and a boost controller and make the most of that. Any more will take more dicking around and $

Otherwise, prob easier for the goal area would be to sell ur R32 and get an RB25DET car (converted R32 or R33 & R34) that has been modified and tuned for the desired result you want.

jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
Posted

and building is serious $ when a decent modded R33 that will put a big smile on his face is under $10k these days...

that's also prob less than it would cost him to sell it and upgrade VS boost, inject and tune the current one (+ clutch, + problems etc etc)

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