Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can't see why not. Don't listen to people that say silly things like supporting mods etc. Just bolt it on and boost away into the sunset. ;) rb25s were made for turbos after all.

Edited by superben
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7005338
Share on other sites

After seeing the results of his VNT I think Hypergear would be a far better choice, I don't think any other manufacturer would spend so much time with an R33 on the dyno to develop turbo options for an Rb.

Edited by AngryRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006137
Share on other sites

You can put any turbo on an rb25. Just depends on what you want to use the car for and how much power you want. Hypergear stuff isnt crap and props to them for making the choice easy for skyline owners when it comes to setups.

The reason why garrett and precision dont spend so much time developing a turbo for the 25 is most likely because they aren't aiming for skyline owners but moreso aiming for the entire performance/turbo world.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006342
Share on other sites

Dont be confused a garrett gt3582r ("3540") is a good turbo but it will be on the laggy side of turbos for a rb25. You also cant just bolt one on and away you go. You'll need supporting mods like a " ecu, atleast 740cc injectors or bigger if going e85. 4" dump into a 3.5"

exhaust with a sutiable cat. Drop in cams and valve springs. Depending on fuel your planning to use will determine what fuel pump set up you need. Remember a (3540) is a 700hp turbo so unless used on a track on constant high revs it will feel laggy on the street. You'll need other things for a 3540 setup. Suspension, brakes, clutch etc. You would be bettet off spending the money on a HYPERGEAR hi-flow. Ss1pu would be good for a simple upgrade. Or his ss2 vnt if your prepared to upgrade other bits & pieces. Or a 3076 hta. Precision 5757/5858 billet cea wheel could be a goet as well.

Josh.

Edited by Joshbigt62r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006617
Share on other sites

I found this on the dynosheet section, It is a GT3582 in a .82 rear housing, This is a very good comparison to mine which has a more "Rb25det defined" 3582 equivalent turbocharger.

gallery_34685_3163_69889.jpg

Compare with boost plot:

boost.jpg

Which is identical to my controlled run (thick yellow), Thin yellow is the defined version.

Power wise it made 445rwkws @25psi @ 4500RPM. It is not that bad, still not a responsive turbo for a daily, which I'm working on.

Depending on how Cheap a GT3582 can be obtained, I can certainly modify it to the "defined" version at a fee. After the completion of research.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006632
Share on other sites

Save your money up and buy a power fc if funds ade tight or what I recommend go straight to a adaptronic/Vi-Pec/ Link or Haltech direct plug in mate. Then you wonf need a afm. Jyst use thd map sensor and tons more features mate. Greddy blue is good for a paper weighf thats a8 it lol. And aem im not sure many people tune them here in Australia. Pick whatever ECU your tuner is most comfortable with I should have said.

Josh.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006707
Share on other sites

I love this magical "RB25 specific" stuff. Turbo has NFI what engine it is attached to, sure - there are some combinations which will suit each other better or otherwise but for the most part that is bigger picture turbo/engine/part matching stuff (ie, tuning in the bigger picture). Comparing two large turbos on an engine not good at spooling turbos and allowing one to start at 1500rpm and giving that turbo 4.6 seconds to reach 4500rpm (Hypergear - assuming the 9 second run Chequered uses still applies) versus one which starts at 2500rpm and allows it 3.1 seconds to get to 4500rpm (GT35R) proves that the Hypergear turbo can build more boost by 4500rpm if it's given 50% more time to do so. Out of interest, the GT35R is actually hitting full boost 3.7s into it's dyno run after starting 1000rpm later, versus 4.6 for the Hypergear. How they'd both compare on the same start rpm and ramp rate, who knows.

A question which hasn't been asked so far - is that an actual Garrett GT3582R, or an ebay-type "GT35"? I'm starting to wonder.... and if that's the case, save your money and keep the stock turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006718
Share on other sites

I love this magical "RB25 specific" stuff. Turbo has NFI what engine it is attached to, sure - there are some combinations which will suit each other better or otherwise but for the most part that is bigger picture turbo/engine/part matching stuff (ie, tuning in the bigger picture). Comparing two large turbos on an engine not good at spooling turbos and allowing one to start at 1500rpm and giving that turbo 4.6 seconds to reach 4500rpm (Hypergear - assuming the 9 second run Chequered uses still applies) versus one which starts at 2500rpm and allows it 3.1 seconds to get to 4500rpm (GT35R) proves that the Hypergear turbo can build more boost by 4500rpm if it's given 50% more time to do so. Out of interest, the GT35R is actually hitting full boost 3.7s into it's dyno run after starting 1000rpm later, versus 4.6 for the Hypergear. How they'd both compare on the same start rpm and ramp rate, who knows.

Its not "magic", it is ingenuity, more because enough work and researches has been put into this item, specifically for a Rb25det. Results came from the dynosheet section that has same setup as mine

The dyno automatically pickup data in set roller rate and completes in a given time. So at the point of where data began to plotted car is already on fully throttle, in which makes no difference to boost generating behavior. You can start plotting from 500RPMs and it will still match identical RPM/Boost plots.

Plus turbocharger in this size is not sensitive to ramp change, lets give / take 1.3 sec makes 0 differences.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006796
Share on other sites

GT35 - 400rwkw turbo.

You're going to need more than 550cc injectors unless you plan to run a pretty high base pressure to start off with which would then lead to ensuring you have a very good fuel pump to supply the fuel @ that rate/pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7007651
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...