Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I recently bought another skyline, an r34 gtt.. it's been driving beautifully until tonight.

I was on the way home and gave it a bit of a squirt, nothing crazy, but a reasonable amount of go.. when I shifted and revs came down to 'normal', there was quite an audible pop.

Following the pop, for the next 5 minutes home, under any acceleration there was a high pitched whine from the engine bay.

I didn't hammer it after this as I was bloody scared (I still am) that something has gone horribly wrong, but the turbo seemed to be spooling up okay, although from my boost controller it seemed to be coming up a little slower than normal (ie, under minimal load it would sit around 0, now it was sitting around -5 if that makes sense).

When its light in the morning I'll check if any vacuum hoses have popped off.. seriously hoping that is all this is?

What else could it be? Although I know it most likely is.. please don't say dead / dying turbo... How much is a replacement going to cost me? -_-

Sounds like a gasket somewhere either mani to turbo or turbo to dump. Could also be a hose so check those first.

Cheers for the quick response! Will definitely check all hoses in the morning. I'm *hoping* after seaeerching / reading around that it could just be an FM intercooler pipe that popped off? Would explain the pop and the noise.. fingers crossed.

If not, how would I check the gaskets? Off to the mechanics I'm assuming?

Ceramic Turbo wheel off the spindel

Does that mean a turbo rebuild / replacement?

I didn't get a chance to look over it this morning but will this arvo. Either way I've got it booked in with the mechs for Thursday morning to be safe.

Will keep this thread updated!

Edited by flashy

Ceramic Turbo wheel off the spindel

Would he still be able to boost though? He said he can just its lazier than usual.

Pull off your intake pipe and give the compressor wheel a good jiggle see if it moves at all, side to side/back and forwards.

Both of you are spot on. There would be no boost / positive boost pressure if the Turbo had failed.

I should pay attention when skimming through :(

what thru me was "Following the pop, for the next 5 minutes home, under any acceleration there was a high pitched whine from the engine bay"

when I have popped an IC pipe in the past I have not had any noise after the initial "pop". to have a noise it may not be off completely or a smaller hose somewhere.

Plus - I did my OP6 Turbo a few weeks back. I heard a PoP and any acceleration I received a whine noise :(. But your right the gauge did not go over Zero......

what thru me was "Following the pop, for the next 5 minutes home, under any acceleration there was a high pitched whine from the engine bay"

when I have popped an IC pipe in the past I have not had any noise after the initial "pop". to have a noise it may not be off completely or a smaller hose somewhere.

depending on the joiner or hose (or gasket) to go there can be a range of noises the motor can make as its forcing the air out through the leak.

To OP, start the deductive process of elimination my friend.

Also just because something 'looks sealed' doesn't mean it is. I popped the seal on my crossover pipe before and I couldn't tell it was the problem upon visual or feel inspection.

same thing happened to me when i didn't tighten the silicon joiners on my intercooler pipes tight enough. Popping noise was the cooler piping coming loose (and even open one time lol), and whenever i accelerated there was a high pitch whine, audible from inside the cabin.

Un-did all IC piping joints, and put it all back together nice and tight. fixed it up fo rme!

When I popped an intercooler pipe the car wouldn't run much higher than idle and there was huge amounts of black smoke coming from the exhaust; the car was undrivable.

I figured the turbo was still sucking air through the AFM but it was just leaking into the atmosphere, the ECU was trying to use way to much fuel for the amount of air actually going into the engine.

I unplugged the AFM and the car still ran like a dog but made it home easy.

without sealed IC piping, car barely runs at all

Yeah, but there's popped and there's popped. Popped open means a massive air leak either inwards or outwards depending on whether you can get it to boost. A little pop might mean that it doesn't allow much/any to get sucked in, so you don't have a bypass of the AFM and hence lean running, but put a bit of pressure inside and it opens up and screams. Plenum gaskets are the poster boy for that noise.

  • 2 weeks later...

When you hear a pop and then a whine when it should be boosting, this is probably what you've done. This happened to me yesterday. Shaft is bent along with the destruction you see.

post-81631-0-01375700-1380280972_thumb.png

@ #flashy Any update?

@ #@GTSBoy

my Turbo failure - wheel off spindle

2001 R34 GTT Neo (s2), 130k kms, OP6, Auto, daily street driver - no abuse since owning last 3 years, stock boost.

cant really say how it was treated prior to my ownership, however the condition when I purchased the 34 was - very well maintained. (a heck of alot better than the other 7 looked at)

(pod, return flow fmic and aftermarket exhaust)

its all age and luck with these things now.

My '93 S1 GTST's turbo was still fine, n I ran it for 2 years at 15psi...

Ended up swapping it out for a HKS turbo cos I wanted more power. the stock turbo was still going strong though. Go figure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...