Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys first post for me,im new to gtr's.I have just recently bought a r33 gtr from Adam at JEM.It currently makes 343kws at the wheels on 20psi.

My plan is to switch it over to United e85 with an end goal of 400kws at the wheels.IT has a precision 6266 turbo and other supporting mods.At the moment it has an 044 intank,i was thinking of replacing this with a walbro e85 450l/ph pump and replacing 750cc injectors with some bosch id1000s.

I have asked Adam at jem and he said in theory this pump should do the job,but has not personally done it.

Your thoughts guys or experiences would be great.I will directly wired this off the battery thru a relay to get good volts to the pump.I have used the search function,but could not find an answer.

From the last page of the RB26 dyno results thread:

forged bottom end

stock cams and valve springs

metal head gasket with ARP head studs

precision 6266 0.84 T4 divided rear

3.5" dump/cat back

GFB EX50 50mm external gate

1200cc injectors with walbro e85 pump

power fc d-jetro

409rwkw @ 26psi on Caltex eflex E70, at the limit of stock cams and injectors

At 13.5v and 40 psi rail pressure it advertises 430l/ph and on 12v at 40 psi it flows 375l/ph.I plan on running a direct feed to get near 13.5 volts.So at 40psi pressure should outflow 2x 044s.I was toying with the idea of the bosch id2200cc injs.Thanks guys

Not sure on that one piggaz,i think I will go straight with the bosch id 2200cc or similar brand.Car has haltech platinum pro plug-in,should handle the big injectors ok.Thanks guys.

Have a gander at my attachment.

I wrote a pretty simple spreadsheet for calculating and comparing different fuel systems for my car. Obviously it's to suit my setup but could be easily tweaked.

I have highlighted all of the cells you need to update then see sheet 2 and graph's it all out.

IE set the highlighted cell to your desired base fuel pressure. write out your hp and boost based off a close dyno sheet. in my case when it was tuned for bp98. and then fill in the injector flows and corresponding pressures.

with this info it tells me that my injectors are too small for me to convert over to E85 and keep my same HP. unless I either run a 70PSI base pressure or go about an 80% duty.

fuel calcs.zip

thanks ss8 gohan,will go with the e85 450l/ph pump.Still tossing up on the injectors.Tuner thinks 1000cc ids will do,but a lot of guys on here think the 2000cc are the go.Most suppliers will warrant the 1000cc with e85 but not the 2000cc,Will do some more research.Thanks all,for ideas and tips.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...