Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well, yeah.....the clutch in the converter.

Hi. I'm having a problem with my stock rb25det auto box slipping. I am 99.9% sure the culprit it worn out burned out clutch plates. Are you saying If I simply swap out the torque converter and keep my box I will have a fresh set of clutch plates?

This is good news if that is the case.

There are 5 or 6 clutch plates for each gear, and steel plates between them. (Like a motorbike clutch pack.) The clutch plates only have 0.5mm of material on them so when they slip it doesn't take much to wear them to metal requiring a rebuild.

They have in excess of 200psi oil pressure pushing the pack together when locked so there is massive heat generated if slipping occurs, more than enough to warp the metal plates between the clutches. If you get the box rebuilt they will usually toss the lot and laser cut some thinner metal plates, to allow extra clutches to be installed in each gear's clutch pack. That way it can hold more power.

There are 5 or 6 clutch plates for each gear, and steel plates between them. (Like a motorbike clutch pack.) The clutch plates only have 0.5mm of material on them so when they slip it doesn't take much to wear them to metal requiring a rebuild.

They have in excess of 200psi oil pressure pushing the pack together when locked so there is massive heat generated if slipping occurs, more than enough to warp the metal plates between the clutches. If you get the box rebuilt they will usually toss the lot and laser cut some thinner metal plates, to allow extra clutches to be installed in each gear's clutch pack. That way it can hold more power.

That still doesnt answer if the cltuch plates are in the torque convert or the inside of the transmission.

GTSboy answered that. There is a single plate lockup clutch in the torque converter, it's job is to obviously lock up the torque converter, to make it direct drive, like a manual clutch.

There are also many clutches in the gearbox for the gears, and a band (like a drum brake) to slow the car when you back off. If yours is revving right out on slip it will be the gear clutch which has worn. If it only revs out onto the stall converter speed, it will be the lockup clutch that is faulty.

My bad. Well while we're on the topic. Its Difficult to address what you raised unless you know exactly what I mean. The car is not revving out at all. In fact it begins to stall and shifts like a brand new box. The problem is there isn't a direct engagement between the Engine and wheels like there should be under WOT, or even 1/4 throttle sometimes. I am not talking about the first few seconds or pulling out of the driveway.

After a certain point when pressing the accelerator the car stops continuing to accelerate and starts to shudder back and forth a bit. By this I mean the increasing rate of acceleration as engine RPM rises, halts. The car obviously still picks up speed in this state, but it would look like the powerband has flattened out on a dyno at 3000rpm but its not due to lack of power from the engine doing it. I hope you get what I mean by all this.

In addition, I think the ECU backs of timing or lessens power output depending on the state of the transmission and even when the clutch it slipping. I can also feel it cutting power in between shifts. This is normal, but it seems to confuse people to think the transmission works and sfhits normally, whereas I can easily detect when there isn't direct engagement. Its like if you held the clutch at 3/4 lock in a manual car and as soon as you felt slip backed of the throttle and kept it there. Its not right.

Edited by sonicz

Sounds like what a torque converter should be doing. It should unlock as you accelerate and lock again once you are cruising, allowing the engine revs to rise onto stall when you boot it. Perhaps you have a high stall converter fitted already which may make it seem worse than usual?

Yes, the stock ecu mapping backs out timing between shifts.

I'm not that familiar with the inner workings of an AT. What I do know is I can feel G forces in a car, and what is happening increasing acceleration it halted somewhere down line of the engine. I dont think its normal for at transmission to be the limiting factor on acceleration.

The following is a good anlogy of what i mean by direct enagement, Its kind of like wheel spin. When your wheels are not loosing traction, you have direct engagement with the road, but if you exceed a certain point and your wheels begin to slip, no matter how much HP your engine puts out, your acceleration will be limited. Solution is to get more grip on the tyres, not giving the engine more HP. The same thing is happening here.

Ive owned a few 300HP+ AT cars. I know in my mazda (200,000ks+ and previous owner never changed At fluid) I had the same problem. Mechanics said box works fine. they just drive it, checks if it shifts smoothly and that is all. Doh!

But I knew it wasnt. I was lucky enough to find a brand new box for $2000 during a mazda warehouse clearance and had it fitted. The car felt like it double the power. No more slip.

Does anyone know if the RE4RO1A auto that is behind the rb25det in the r33 (also behind 300zx non turbo)

Is this auto in any other skyline.

I've been looking on eBay at the autos that are in r32's & r31 series 3 ,the pictures that people have look like the same autos

Can any one confirm this is true

Does anyone know if the RE4RO1A auto that is behind the rb25det in the r33 (also behind 300zx non turbo)

Is this auto in any other skyline.

I've been looking on eBay at the autos that are in r32's & r31 series 3 ,the pictures that people have look like the same autos

Can any one confirm this is true

The series 1 and series 2 R31 had the 4n71b. .series 3 31 +32 +33 are all re4ro1a

Series 1 R34 has the re4ro1B

Series 2 R34 has a different trans again afaik

The series 1 and series 2 R31 had the 4n71b. .series 3 31 +32 +33 are all re4ro1a

Series 1 R34 has the re4ro1B

Series 2 R34 has a different trans again afaik

The y31 cedric etc has a stronger re4ro3b

Has anyone connected a b&m shifter to one of these autos

I'm planing to make it 4 speed on the shifter instead of 3

4th gear is run of a switch when using a b+m shifter. If you are going to use a b+m shifter buy the correct brackets to make it work correctly

From what I have found there was only one company doing a trans brake manual valve body but they went broke last year. All 4 speed jatco boxes have an electronic solenoid to engage 4th not activated through the selector

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...