Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well, yeah.....the clutch in the converter.

Hi. I'm having a problem with my stock rb25det auto box slipping. I am 99.9% sure the culprit it worn out burned out clutch plates. Are you saying If I simply swap out the torque converter and keep my box I will have a fresh set of clutch plates?

This is good news if that is the case.

There are 5 or 6 clutch plates for each gear, and steel plates between them. (Like a motorbike clutch pack.) The clutch plates only have 0.5mm of material on them so when they slip it doesn't take much to wear them to metal requiring a rebuild.

They have in excess of 200psi oil pressure pushing the pack together when locked so there is massive heat generated if slipping occurs, more than enough to warp the metal plates between the clutches. If you get the box rebuilt they will usually toss the lot and laser cut some thinner metal plates, to allow extra clutches to be installed in each gear's clutch pack. That way it can hold more power.

There are 5 or 6 clutch plates for each gear, and steel plates between them. (Like a motorbike clutch pack.) The clutch plates only have 0.5mm of material on them so when they slip it doesn't take much to wear them to metal requiring a rebuild.

They have in excess of 200psi oil pressure pushing the pack together when locked so there is massive heat generated if slipping occurs, more than enough to warp the metal plates between the clutches. If you get the box rebuilt they will usually toss the lot and laser cut some thinner metal plates, to allow extra clutches to be installed in each gear's clutch pack. That way it can hold more power.

That still doesnt answer if the cltuch plates are in the torque convert or the inside of the transmission.

GTSboy answered that. There is a single plate lockup clutch in the torque converter, it's job is to obviously lock up the torque converter, to make it direct drive, like a manual clutch.

There are also many clutches in the gearbox for the gears, and a band (like a drum brake) to slow the car when you back off. If yours is revving right out on slip it will be the gear clutch which has worn. If it only revs out onto the stall converter speed, it will be the lockup clutch that is faulty.

My bad. Well while we're on the topic. Its Difficult to address what you raised unless you know exactly what I mean. The car is not revving out at all. In fact it begins to stall and shifts like a brand new box. The problem is there isn't a direct engagement between the Engine and wheels like there should be under WOT, or even 1/4 throttle sometimes. I am not talking about the first few seconds or pulling out of the driveway.

After a certain point when pressing the accelerator the car stops continuing to accelerate and starts to shudder back and forth a bit. By this I mean the increasing rate of acceleration as engine RPM rises, halts. The car obviously still picks up speed in this state, but it would look like the powerband has flattened out on a dyno at 3000rpm but its not due to lack of power from the engine doing it. I hope you get what I mean by all this.

In addition, I think the ECU backs of timing or lessens power output depending on the state of the transmission and even when the clutch it slipping. I can also feel it cutting power in between shifts. This is normal, but it seems to confuse people to think the transmission works and sfhits normally, whereas I can easily detect when there isn't direct engagement. Its like if you held the clutch at 3/4 lock in a manual car and as soon as you felt slip backed of the throttle and kept it there. Its not right.

Edited by sonicz

Sounds like what a torque converter should be doing. It should unlock as you accelerate and lock again once you are cruising, allowing the engine revs to rise onto stall when you boot it. Perhaps you have a high stall converter fitted already which may make it seem worse than usual?

Yes, the stock ecu mapping backs out timing between shifts.

I'm not that familiar with the inner workings of an AT. What I do know is I can feel G forces in a car, and what is happening increasing acceleration it halted somewhere down line of the engine. I dont think its normal for at transmission to be the limiting factor on acceleration.

The following is a good anlogy of what i mean by direct enagement, Its kind of like wheel spin. When your wheels are not loosing traction, you have direct engagement with the road, but if you exceed a certain point and your wheels begin to slip, no matter how much HP your engine puts out, your acceleration will be limited. Solution is to get more grip on the tyres, not giving the engine more HP. The same thing is happening here.

Ive owned a few 300HP+ AT cars. I know in my mazda (200,000ks+ and previous owner never changed At fluid) I had the same problem. Mechanics said box works fine. they just drive it, checks if it shifts smoothly and that is all. Doh!

But I knew it wasnt. I was lucky enough to find a brand new box for $2000 during a mazda warehouse clearance and had it fitted. The car felt like it double the power. No more slip.

Does anyone know if the RE4RO1A auto that is behind the rb25det in the r33 (also behind 300zx non turbo)

Is this auto in any other skyline.

I've been looking on eBay at the autos that are in r32's & r31 series 3 ,the pictures that people have look like the same autos

Can any one confirm this is true

Does anyone know if the RE4RO1A auto that is behind the rb25det in the r33 (also behind 300zx non turbo)

Is this auto in any other skyline.

I've been looking on eBay at the autos that are in r32's & r31 series 3 ,the pictures that people have look like the same autos

Can any one confirm this is true

The series 1 and series 2 R31 had the 4n71b. .series 3 31 +32 +33 are all re4ro1a

Series 1 R34 has the re4ro1B

Series 2 R34 has a different trans again afaik

The series 1 and series 2 R31 had the 4n71b. .series 3 31 +32 +33 are all re4ro1a

Series 1 R34 has the re4ro1B

Series 2 R34 has a different trans again afaik

The y31 cedric etc has a stronger re4ro3b

Has anyone connected a b&m shifter to one of these autos

I'm planing to make it 4 speed on the shifter instead of 3

4th gear is run of a switch when using a b+m shifter. If you are going to use a b+m shifter buy the correct brackets to make it work correctly

From what I have found there was only one company doing a trans brake manual valve body but they went broke last year. All 4 speed jatco boxes have an electronic solenoid to engage 4th not activated through the selector

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...