Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

UPDATE: just blew the old turbo, defiantly rejoicing over my decision to buy stock turbo. Glad i didn't throw on fuel rails and try to tune that setup, like some suggested haha.

Question: can i limp a blown turbo around if i stay off boost for a week?(no smoke yet)

don't blame the turbo when you're the dickhead that was driving it and trying to rev it past 4k with no tune and popping cooler pipes..even though "SOME SUGGESTED" you shouldn't even be driving it...

just keep driving it mate she'll be right....haha!!!!...:dry:

don't blame the turbo when you're the dickhead that was driving it and trying to rev it past 4k with no tune and popping cooler pipes..even though "SOME SUGGESTED" you shouldn't even be driving it...

just keep driving it mate she'll be right....haha!!!!... :dry:

Not blaming the turbo haha, the plan to go back to stock was so i could thrash the rb with a safe tune. Try NOT driving like a dickhead when it's your first skyline and theres meat on the tyres x]

No one has asked this so I'm going to.

Why did you buy a heavily modified skyline if you wanted something stock? Surely you paid way more than it was worth as well.

Well, You nailed it brother. Costs more than what it was worth, and a headache and a half. Being straight up, i had no idea what to look out for when buying a car, i checked for oil leaks, service history and all panels were straight and working.

The big turbo kinda suckered me in, plus the engine was literally just put back together after being machined. Also, i didn't really think it was a big modification and if necessary i had money at the time to deal with a fix if it was required.

All you needed to fix your car wss a tune from the get go. And a few things here and there. You have taken years off its life punting it untuned and you have lost money because no one will buy a broken turbo.

Without money for a tune, tuning is out of the question. Still questioning my friends diagnosis of a blown turbo... there is a change in the whistle, but it's a very small change and it still spins without any clunking. Could still potentially be a vacuum leak or seals dead. Regardless of that, since powercruise is just around the corner where do you suggest i tune my car with all the tuners in perth (c-red,pcp, japwreck, allstars,ovaboost etc) busy till late october? (I've been to every tuning garage in Perth finding the cheapest quotes.)

Edited by iTwix

I dont see how you had no money. You went and bought all these stock bits for your car, all up you would have been a few hundred bux off a tune.

I think you need to get your priorities straight or just sell the bloody thing.

I dont see how you had no money. You went and bought all these stock bits for your car, all up you would have been a few hundred bux off a tune.

I think you need to get your priorities straight or just sell the bloody thing.

If you tune a pig with shitty parts, it's going to be a fast pig. Parts needed to be replaced, and since they don't regenerate i had to pay for them. As i just said twice, i can't f**king tune it when all the shops are booked out, but i'm waiting in line.... can't do much besides wait, so whats your problem?

I think your best option is all star garage.

Few people on here use them and have said good things as well.

Maybe take it into them after saving some coin?

Also I would take the intercooler pipe and get someone to put a bead on it. That will stop it popping off :)

I think your best option is all star garage.

Few people on here use them and have said good things as well.

Maybe take it into them after saving some coin?

Also I would take the intercooler pipe and get someone to put a bead on it. That will stop it popping off :)

Yeah they seemed like nice guys :D

Intercooler pipe has a bead, but it's got a shit joiner clamped with a radiator hose. i have new intercooler pipes ready and waiting with ribs on the ends and silicon joiners :)

Nice work dude.

It looked really loose when you put it back in.

I wouldn't expect it to hold if you were able to push it back in and just leave it.

Yeah, just found out it wasn't my turbo blown, just that joiner has become very loose, loosing boost. i used one of my proper clamps from the new kit and it's back up to it's usual power and noises. I just have to granny it around now because i don't have a failsafe for overboost D:

Nice work dude.

It looked really loose when you put it back in.

I wouldn't expect it to hold if you were able to push it back in and just leave it.

i very strongly agree with you after learning more about jap cars. Learn from my mistakes i guess :P

This thread makes me :domokun: .

Money should've been spent better on getting a workshop to go over the mods.

You really should sell this and buy a stock R33 to learn with.

For the third time, money WILL be spent at the shop, i'm just waiting for my booking. This post makes me :domokun: .

Honestly. Go find an rb25det for 2k. Drop it in and part yours out. In the long run you will have hardly spent anything. You are wasting time and money. For all you know the car has shot pistons as well. Wouldn't surprise me looking at the work that has been done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...