Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Oem & Nismo 'optional Parts' - Images Are Here. Maybe Someone Has Better Copies?


Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

8 years ago, I bought a large box of left over parts from a 32 wreck. Looked inside it yesterday and found this -

5a5a2771-ce9c-4dce-b21c-766f316659ea_zps

Looks to be the optional footrest cover. Considering putting it on now. Might give it a clean.

There heaps better than the one that comes with the GTR R34 Race pedal set (it has a plastic one with metal pad and flexes badly)

The one in your Pic is awesome and solid as. There is already holes in the body to bolt it into :)

  • Like 1

Someone give me an R32 VIN and I will see if there is anything on Fast? Found some cool shit for the R33 the other day when i was looking through. All these Navan (I think) extras. Including Recaro's, GPS stuff as well as lots of other things. Maybe this stuff will show up on later model R32's (Not sure if they are GTR spefic etc?)

  • 1 year later...

I have a few items that are in those brochures.

jmhLmyS.jpg

1iPBA48.jpg

These are not in the brochure, think they came out during r33 era? They are old though.

AF5eyFh.jpg

Jyll95W.jpg

Horn and wheel

I4Jc9yH.jpg

0mYFV7a.jpg

f5JkV1b.jpg

I have seen the old school intercooler, but they are never in good condition so I always pass on them. Not to mention, they are still expensive lol. They are made by ARC.

I still refer to this periodically...

PartsCatalogue.jpg

'Tis nice to get a collection...

LMGT1-2_zpshnuf90ax.jpg

Much enjoyment these days in the "hunt"

LMGT1-1_zps4xr6malm.jpg

Even though the thread is two yrs old, finding something rare just becomes all the more enjoyable.

P1060330_zpsflm5pby0.jpg

Interior has much goodness too.

Interior-1_zpsnpxshozz.jpg

The kill switch.

Kill%20Switch-3_zpsddmlnllc.jpg

Steering wheel.

Steering%20Wheel-1_zpsltwliosp.jpg

Floor Mats - Steel badge

Floor%20Mat-1_zpsle1fhj7l.jpg

Kick Plates - Aluminium badge

Badge-3_zpsdr56lcdy.jpg

Yup, 'tis fun to be on the prowl

  • Like 1

The Rear End.

Sticker-2_zpsz6c61krr.jpg

Hidden is the Nismo Fuel Pump, but the Rear Strut Brace is also a good thing.

Strut%20Brace-5_zpsnedvxxkz.jpg

Bootlid Sticker is like the cherry on the cake.

Sticker-3_zps8qlpfa9a.jpg

Many thanks to Wongy, Anfanee and Sinista32 for giving me the heads up on things. What a wonderful network!!!!

  • Like 1

The Engine Bay

Engine%20Bay-1_zpsvmz7fbss.jpg

Nismo 555cc Injectors, Fuel Regulator and Oil Cap.

Oil%20Cap-5_zpsggwqnbhj.jpg

And there's always a ring-in - whilst I'm waiting for the Nismo Radiator Cap from Bangkok.

Badge-1_zpsjjuvzzq9.jpg

...but it looks good! Lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...