Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's my old boat mate, the box was the standard R33GTS t box, it was rebuilt and modified not that long ago, if its at UNIGROUP now they can tell you about the internal mods, but after the rebuild it did about 20 runs with drag radials which may have upset it again.

I was going to get a better box but instead got a better school for my daughter, LOL.

Don't go off the old dyno sheet that was supplied with the sale, that sheet was taken at UNIGROUP by Stevo during the tuning, it was detuned from there to keep the tune safe as the fuel flow was wanting due to injectors being on the small side, when it left it was running about 380, it will be a totally different beast on E85 with some more boost and tuning.

It should go well with a good fuel set up, it ate nearly everything at the SAU nats for speed and was the fastest and quickest RWD by far, the trophy's are somewhere at UNIGROUP.

Best time at the strip I got was 11.080 @ 132? mph, I want you to get it well into the 10's.

As for the track, now it has a new nut behind the wheel the times should drop there as well.

Tell me when you go and post results.

I also found in the bottom of my toolbox most of a copy of the user manual if you want it, it was sold with one originally with all the spares, its yours if you want it, but only pages 49 to 144.

Good to finally speak to you mark really am glad umm yeah there car is at uni group as we speak I have the trophies as well they speak highly of you and the boat lol. It getting a whole new fuel system 5 litre surge tank internal x2 wall bro pumps flex sensor 2000cc injectors fuel rail control sensor etc. whole new dyno and map... I will definetly be posting all results.. And will more then likely be taking it to creek this wens if unigroup are done I honestly can't wait the car is my pride and joy... The car has got some sort of manual with it a copy.. You have the original is that what it is or

Do you have the drag radials that I sold with the car, if so they are getting very old and like a big burn out to bring them on.

I think it liked to launch at around 4000 rpm if I recall, less than that it bogged down and any more it just spun, I suppose it will be different with a different tune?

Have you got a Super Street ANDRA licence, if you don't expect to get kicked out the first run the car hooks up, or you can pay for SS licence on the night for $150 or something, they will hit you up at the slip office on your way back .

If you are planning on going more than once you WILL need one.

Its fun beating almost every rego'ed RWD & 4WD street car at the drags (not trailer queens with rego plates that wouldn't pass a pink slip), my favourite win was against some Porsche 4wd turbo thing that cost $300,000, he complained that he didn't have the launch control on, we lined up again and I beat him again, he did have me till half track though, but at half track I flew passed him, laughing .

Ummm yeah I do have them radials he sold them to me with the car they look a bit how you going I'll try them out for the first time plus I just bought 4 brand new rs3 hankook tyres costly but I like them... License wise I plann to get a good time and that's probably it don't want to put the car under a shit load of stress ATM but then again that can all change as I probably just going to keep chasing better times...plus I only had 3 points of my license left and got pulled over in it a few weeks ago and in 3 weeks lose my license...but when I get it back in 3 months I want to start taking it to the track and stuff.. I'm putting it in a mag soon too I'll let you know how dyno and stuff goes next week..

PM me if you are going to WSID and if I'm free I'll come for a look and bring the bits of the user guide I've got.

If not then I will most likely see you on the street, if a big red BF Falcon starts following you don't worry its only me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...