Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

square hollow section/ metal post

http://www.moorabbinsteel.com/shs.php

with a grinder or drop saw cut a slit it in it like the factory jack and place that on the sil panel jacking point to spread the load better for the hoist

Thought about that, but would want something that wouldn't have such a harsh edge on my hoist pads or the list points of the car (pending which way you cut it)

Then the added stuffing around making sure they are lined up and in the correct spots on every point of the car while lifting seems annoying.

Hoping to find another pad with deeper grooves for this purpose so its just as easy and lifting anything else.

Just a quick line up and check and up it goes, instead of having to worry about the bracket/tubing on my pads being on a slight angle, or not in the middle of the hoist pads, worst thing i am afraid of is if i am working on the car, and have to apply a bit of torque to something and a bracket tips over. could result in my car being sad, or myself having no emotion at all lol!

Unless i am thinking about it the wrong way, or maybe I am just too much of a fussy prick.

I would have to weld up a base plate to sit on my pads to make it extra safe, even then if it slips off due to incorrect lifting is also a possibility

Edited by Booki

The M35 stagea is two ton with similar strength sills, I doubt a skyline would crush the sill if the load was evenly balanced. (unless it was already damaged) None I have had on the hoist have ever crushed anyway. You obviously need to be careful though, centering the load on the pad.

If you are worried, sit a length of wood between the pad and along the sill spreading the load over a greater area.

How do you think people lift up the car with a trolley jack?

When I jacked my lifted the car up with my hydraulic jack, I used the cross member with a block of wood. And the diff for the rear...

I am looking at deeper style pads so it makes no contact with the sill, only the load points.

Yeah I think I have ocd

Most of the cars I see are lowered and there is no way I could get to the crossmember. I need to jack most up just to get the hoist pads under it, and they are only 100mm off the ground.

Fiberglass side skirts really shit me.

  • 2 weeks later...

After much hunting around and calling endlessly, finally found a bloke who sold me the pads in vic!

Picked them up today and they fit pretty well under neath, they are about 15-16mm deep, vs the 10-12mm ones i have.

Lifted the car up and no issues!

He has pads for all different types of hoists too

  • 9 months later...

After much hunting around and calling endlessly, finally found a bloke who sold me the pads in vic!

Picked them up today and they fit pretty well under neath, they are about 15-16mm deep, vs the 10-12mm ones i have.

Lifted the car up and no issues!

He has pads for all different types of hoists too

You wouldn't still happen to have the number of this bloke by any chance? I'm after some of these adapters as well.

His name is John,

Really nice guy and got me a pad with a thicker groove so it did not contact the sill, only the mounting points. Basically mimicked the factory jack.

www.johnwards.com.au

It's funny, after all this time you could have just lifted up the car on those standard hoist pads and not had a problem. It doesn't look like they fold in enough at all, but believe me they will. You can lift it up with a rubber block with no cutouts in it and it still won't damage the sill.

Do you think that applies to all cars? not just GTR/skylines?

And would the pad have to be on that exact spot with the cutouts on the sill? or could you lift it proportionally down either side?

Yes, all cars are designed to be lifted at the sill, many workshops use flat rubber pads to spread the load, but there is only 1/4 of the car's weight on each pad.

The issue comes when dropkicks jack from one sill with a trolley jack and don't take care/spread the load.

I have on numerous occasions lifted a car from before or after the cutout because the car was positioned incorrectly in the middle of the hoist. Obviously you aim for around the spot that the cut out is in (they're like that to show you where to put the standard Nissan scissor jack), but before or after is fine.

Interesting, because we have a few other cars in our house hold, and the hoist arms are not "short" enough to reach the factory jacking points, resulting in the pad being a little bit before or after depending how centered the car is.

Would it be better to have the pad so the cutout goes into the sill or have it so the sill rests on the outside of the pad? (probs a dumb question now that i read it back)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...