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Hoist Spots For Lifting R33 Gtr?


Booki
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Thought about that, but would want something that wouldn't have such a harsh edge on my hoist pads or the list points of the car (pending which way you cut it)

Then the added stuffing around making sure they are lined up and in the correct spots on every point of the car while lifting seems annoying.

Hoping to find another pad with deeper grooves for this purpose so its just as easy and lifting anything else.

Just a quick line up and check and up it goes, instead of having to worry about the bracket/tubing on my pads being on a slight angle, or not in the middle of the hoist pads, worst thing i am afraid of is if i am working on the car, and have to apply a bit of torque to something and a bracket tips over. could result in my car being sad, or myself having no emotion at all lol!

Unless i am thinking about it the wrong way, or maybe I am just too much of a fussy prick.

I would have to weld up a base plate to sit on my pads to make it extra safe, even then if it slips off due to incorrect lifting is also a possibility

Edited by Booki
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How can you lift up the skyline with a flat pad?

Wouldn't the sill get crushed?

I thought its only designed to guide the jack to the two hard points beside the sill?

So confused now!

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The M35 stagea is two ton with similar strength sills, I doubt a skyline would crush the sill if the load was evenly balanced. (unless it was already damaged) None I have had on the hoist have ever crushed anyway. You obviously need to be careful though, centering the load on the pad.

If you are worried, sit a length of wood between the pad and along the sill spreading the load over a greater area.

How do you think people lift up the car with a trolley jack?

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When I jacked my lifted the car up with my hydraulic jack, I used the cross member with a block of wood. And the diff for the rear...

I am looking at deeper style pads so it makes no contact with the sill, only the load points.

Yeah I think I have ocd

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Most of the cars I see are lowered and there is no way I could get to the crossmember. I need to jack most up just to get the hoist pads under it, and they are only 100mm off the ground.

Fiberglass side skirts really shit me.

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  • 2 weeks later...

After much hunting around and calling endlessly, finally found a bloke who sold me the pads in vic!

Picked them up today and they fit pretty well under neath, they are about 15-16mm deep, vs the 10-12mm ones i have.

Lifted the car up and no issues!

He has pads for all different types of hoists too

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  • 9 months later...

After much hunting around and calling endlessly, finally found a bloke who sold me the pads in vic!

Picked them up today and they fit pretty well under neath, they are about 15-16mm deep, vs the 10-12mm ones i have.

Lifted the car up and no issues!

He has pads for all different types of hoists too

You wouldn't still happen to have the number of this bloke by any chance? I'm after some of these adapters as well.

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His name is John,

Really nice guy and got me a pad with a thicker groove so it did not contact the sill, only the mounting points. Basically mimicked the factory jack.

www.johnwards.com.au

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It's funny, after all this time you could have just lifted up the car on those standard hoist pads and not had a problem. It doesn't look like they fold in enough at all, but believe me they will. You can lift it up with a rubber block with no cutouts in it and it still won't damage the sill.

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Do you think that applies to all cars? not just GTR/skylines?

And would the pad have to be on that exact spot with the cutouts on the sill? or could you lift it proportionally down either side?

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Yes, all cars are designed to be lifted at the sill, many workshops use flat rubber pads to spread the load, but there is only 1/4 of the car's weight on each pad.

The issue comes when dropkicks jack from one sill with a trolley jack and don't take care/spread the load.

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I have on numerous occasions lifted a car from before or after the cutout because the car was positioned incorrectly in the middle of the hoist. Obviously you aim for around the spot that the cut out is in (they're like that to show you where to put the standard Nissan scissor jack), but before or after is fine.

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Interesting, because we have a few other cars in our house hold, and the hoist arms are not "short" enough to reach the factory jacking points, resulting in the pad being a little bit before or after depending how centered the car is.

Would it be better to have the pad so the cutout goes into the sill or have it so the sill rests on the outside of the pad? (probs a dumb question now that i read it back)

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