Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently had a Nistune ECU (w/ Z32) tuned on my R33 S2. Mods are minor: 3" TB exhaust, FMIC and r32 actuator (11psi).

From drive in to drive out I gained a measly 10kw atw. Does this sound about right to anyone who has similar mods? I'm not concerned with the overall power output as I understand every engine is different, but I thought the gain would've been closer to 20kw. Would it be worth chasing another tuner to look at it again or hope that Toshi comes down to Melbourne to have a look? ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433897-nistune-ecu-gains/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Maybe. Depends on what your mixtures and timing were like before, and what they're like now. If your fuel pump is not real good, and so your high load/rev mixtures were not as rich as the factory maps wanted them to be, then it would have been making more power than a std R33 should straight off. Also means that the available gains from tuning are eroded. If your tuner has not leaned on the timing as hard as he could (safely) do, then you might not have gained as much from extra timing in the top end as you might either.

You did not provide enough information in your post to be able to get much more specific than that. There are probably also a few other reasons why it didn't get better, from a collapsed cat to a rag in the intercooler pipe or weak coils, etc etc.

Well as soon as I bought my 32.. I took it for a tune & nistune chip

Gained about 55kw and 89nm torque.

-T04e high-mount

-full through 3inch exhaust

-FMIC

Not exactly a like for like with an 04 lol

I recently had a Nistune ECU (w/ Z32) tuned on my R33 S2. Mods are minor: 3" TB exhaust, FMIC and r32 actuator (11psi).

From drive in to drive out I gained a measly 10kw atw. Does this sound about right to anyone who has similar mods? I'm not concerned with the overall power output as I understand every engine is different, but I thought the gain would've been closer to 20kw. Would it be worth chasing another tuner to look at it again or hope that Toshi comes down to Melbourne to have a look? ;)

sounds bout right to me, with same mods as you, I had a power fc installed and it made bout 10-15kw's more, and it was running very rich with stock computer..

Wouldn't expect too much from just a tune. But scope is there now for boost increase and further mods down the track.

Agree with this^

For a budget upgrade Add -> Injectors, Fuel Pump and High flow Turbo. Should net another 50+ rwkws

Edited by Sinista32

DO you honesty think Nissan f**ked the factory tune up so bad that you could make more than a few killerwasps extra?

Well, depending on which engine and ECU we're talking about.....yeah. R33 RB25DET ECU is so full of ghey in the upper right corner of the fuel and timing maps that just getting rid of all the extra fuel and putting some timing in it can be worth 20 rwkW at more or less the same boost. More or less the same with Neo. In both cases, you get a double benefit from being able to push the boost up a pound or two more than you can even think about running on the standard tune. So there's even more power available from that, and that is a direct response to the "Nissan f**ked factory tune" in both cases. Nissan went very conservative on those tunes. On an RB20 it wasn't quite so severe. You could run them at 13 or 14 psi on the standard tune and so you only gain a bit of extra power from leaning them out a little and adding timing, both of which were not quite as conservative on the factory tune as the later engines.

You still haven't told us what it made?

The biggest thing I noticed about getting my car tuned for the first time wasn't the power, it was the drive-ability. The car was a lot smoother and nippier than it was with the factory tune. I wouldn't get too hung up about the number, especially when it's dyno vs dyno and only 10kw difference.

Before tune it made 170kw and after it was 180kw. As I said I'm not fussed about the final output, I was more interested in the overall gain. This figure was made on the same dyno so it wasn't a dyno vs dyno comparison.

I was a bit annoyed about spending $1k = 10kw :P But I do agree with you, the car does feel a bit sharper.

Mine made 184kW after the tune (not sure what it was before tbh). Only mods are pod, exhaust from turbo back, and R34 SMIC, 9psi. So pretty much in line with yours really.

Oh, also seem to be getting much better fuel economy now. A welcome side benefit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...