Jump to content
SAU Community

Suspension, Brakes, Wheels And Tyres Upgrade


Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Planning to do a suspension, brakes, wheels and tyres upgrade on my R33 GTR in the next few months. Here is what I'm thinking of so far:

Volk TE37SL 18 x 11

295 Semi-Slicks on all four wheels (still deciding on whether to go Kumho or Federal semi's).

HKS Hipermax 4 Suspension

Adjustable upper and lower control arms, roll center adjuster, swaybars, link pin and HICAS lock bar.

Project Mu 6 pot front and 4 pot rear brakes

Really looking to build a car that's quick around a track (but it will still be driven on the street). Pretty open budget, would prefer to go better brands / quality for a bit extra money. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks.

Open budget...Hmmm

Wheels - Custom BBS/OZ forged magnesium wheels.

Suspension - Sachs, Aragosta, Bilstein Ennepetal, Ohlins (Euro), KW, custom MCA golds

Tyres - Michelin Pilot Super Sport, Pirelli P Zero

Your budget is way way above what I would want to spend but certainly not an open budget if those are the sort of brands/upgrades you're looking at :P

In the meantime, I'll keep dreaming :thumbsup:

Federal 595 RSR's are used as a street/light track tyre by many members, they aren't a true semi slick but they can also be used as a road tyre that wont wear out insanely fast.

As for suspension, don't go silly hard spring rates, our roads and race tracks in QLD are far to rough for hard suspension. Just go bigger sway bars to control body roll.

So far this is what is confirmed on the build:

Volk TE37SL 11" Rims

Whiteline 22mm Front Swaybar Adjustable

Whiteline 24mm Rear Swaybar Adjustable

IKEYA FORMULA Front Upper Arms

IKEYA FORMULA Front Roll Centre Adjustor Lower Kit

IKEYA FORMULA Rear Upper Arms

IKEYA FORMULA Rear Traction Adjustor Rod

CUSCO Rear Drag Rod

Here is what will most likely be going with the build (just looking into pricing at the moment):

Project Mu Billet 6 Piston Front Caliper Kit with 380mm Rotor Disc

Project Mu Billet 4 Piston Rear Caliper Kit with 345mm Rotor Disc

Still looking around at tyres and suspension.

Tyres, the Acilles 123Rs are hard to beat value for money or if you want full semis then the 050s or Z221 Hankooks

Suspension, pm Piggaz. He has just gone through all of the suspension dynamics for his R33 GTR and got a custom set of Bilstiens built

Haha t5iv, that cracked me up.

Nismo LM GT4 rims are currently what I have on the car but the rims aren't wide enough for the tyres I'm looking at. My mechanic recommended the Volk's and they are pretty much the exact look I'm after.

Haha t5iv, that cracked me up.

Nismo LM GT4 rims are currently what I have on the car but the rims aren't wide enough for the tyres I'm looking at. My mechanic recommended the Volk's and they are pretty much the exact look I'm after.

I am quite funny. Do you have a Gts-t and a GT-R?

Sounds like this thing is going to handle quite well. When are you planning on having all this done? Will she still be coming to the Charity Cruise?

Nah I had a Gts-t but it broke down constantly so I got rid of it. Only recently bought the GTR (had it for about 6 months now). Most of the parts are on order but some of the stuff won't be here until the end of January (so end of Jan / early Feb is when all this will be going on). Havn't even looked at the Charity Cruise to be honest. When is it?

Nah I had a Gts-t but it broke down constantly so I got rid of it. Only recently bought the GTR (had it for about 6 months now). Most of the parts are on order but some of the stuff won't be here until the end of January (so end of Jan / early Feb is when all this will be going on). Havn't even looked at the Charity Cruise to be honest. When is it?

8 December mate. Would be great to see you out there!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...