Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb34 / 24U (Rb26 + 800Cc) - Project RB high deck engine (and related builds)


Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Amazing results, credit to you and your research.

If you don't mind me asking, What is your daily job? Do the skills from that job help you at all in the design and build of this motor? Or is this solely an enthusiasts desire to get the best results possible?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do computer/network management and programming for a living. For the past 10 years I have been primarily supporting engineering firms. From that I have had a lot of exposure to engineering principals, CAD systems and CNC. As well as engineering support from some very clever people.

Add to this that I have been building engines of various kinds since before I could hold a license.

I've decided to get a set of Supertech valve springs for this current engine to sort out the valve float issue, and hopefully punch through that 500kw atw limit. Then maybe also a switch to an EFR 9180 as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Truly epic thread here! So thorough and well thought out.

A pleasure to read it from start to finish. If/when you make this a "kit" I can only hope I'll be in a position to get a setup like this for my 33 GTR.

Keep up the great work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks Dan.

Not much to report other than that I am going through E85 like no tomorrow. I must do a video of what the car drives like. There is a little maintenance to catch up on, needs a wheel alignment and balance, but other than that its still going strong.

Yes its still a stock getrag for the moment. Basically I'll drive it like this until next year some time when it will get an OS88. The drag strip is still being built, so I wont be breaking the getrag anytime soon.

The main focus is on the next two engines now, which will hopefully be finished around November.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

These next two engines are about stress testing the design. Both are being built with a 1000+hp power goal in mind. No expense spared, with a focus on maximum strength for all components.

Once testing has proved the design holds up for the first engine, the second will become available as the first to ever be sold.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I am still in the process of getting the final parts made for the next two engines.

One of the two cylinder heads is ready to go. Ported, oversize valves, 280x11.5 cams, dual springs, the works. The second head is still being made, and in comparison it makes the first one look like stock. I am told it will flow past 1kw with ease.

Two crankshafts have been completed and are ready to install. One 87.8mm and one 89.8mm, both with 19mm GTiR journals and clearenced for oil squirters.

Two N1 24U Blocks are now partly composite resin filled, and are about to be sleeved and fitted with girdle plates and main caps. Then onto final bore/hone machining once the pistons arrive.

I am hopeful that I will be assembling engines early to mid December.

Edited by GTRNUR
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I am still waiting on pistons for the next two engines. It took quite some time to get the specifications sorted out for something that will handle extreme punishment for an extended time. In the end I went with a custom JE and Trend DLC coated gudgeons. I'm told they will handle 1800hp+, with a specification normally found in a methanol engine.

I completed the rear R35 GTR brake conversion, and have a functional hand brake thanks to modified Toyota Rav 4 hand brake shoes.

Other than that I have been working on the front suspension lately. I've changed the lower control arms to R33 GTR items, so I can use adjustable tension rods. I've yet to locate or make a set of roll centre correction spacers. Upper arms will be fitted with superpro offset bushes to correct camber.

I've also done the first plug change and compression test since the tune. Dry test and every cylinder is within 3psi, which is amazing. The best leak down and pressure test result I've ever had. Then I re-pressure tested the entire intake side of the engine and found the reason I didn't break 500kw in the last tune session. At some stage between the first and second tune sessions, a weld had developed a small crack in a pipe that links the turbo to the intercooler. So essentially I made 610hp with a serious induction leak. I've had to turn off boost control now too, as it hit boost cut on the first drive once the leaks were fixed.

I believe the leak was in part due to a mostly torn through nismo engine mount, as there has been other signs the engine has moved a little too much. I was blowing off pipes during dyno tuning, but also, the plenum has made contact with the clutch master cylinder at some stage.

I changed my first front inner CV boot too. What a fun task that is.

That's all for now.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Update time!

Today truely a great day. With the boost issue fixed Trent from Mercury Motorsport was able to get the engine to perform as I had hoped, and we finally got the 500KW ATW goal.

We had a couple of minor issues with blowing off intercooler pipes again, but other than that the car performed flawlessly.

Huge thanks to Trent @ Mercury Motorsports and Daniel Stephensen from LK motors for performing all the tuning and dyno setup.

526kw atw at 28psi (pipe blew off in this run).

495kw atw at 26psi

33 degrees, 82% Humidity! Stinking hot!

I never saw hotter than 86 degrees on the MFD, (Oil and Water)! My cooling sytem rocks!

post-26553-0-77984400-1449994692_thumb.jpg

Edited by GTRNUR
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi i do buy a aftermarket headlight on ebay. For v35 skyline coupe. I know that its a plug and play and just use the old low beam light and balast from old headlight. But my problem is i dnt have knowlage on car and electrical thing. And the head light getnon ebay is the wire for halo ring light is not connected. I talk to the seller and he said that. What white and black wire for halo robg light is need to connect to RDL. Running day light. Anyone here can tell me how to connect it to Rdl? Which wire is yhe RDL?
    • Hey Kaz, Unfortunately I am not at home currently and wont be for a few more months so I do not have access to my files or CAD. And at this point I prefer to keep the files to myself as I want to potentially make a few more pairs and see if they will sell within the EU before openly marketing them. But the way it's shaped and how small it is, I don't think you can fit both an indicator and a fog light onto the same surround, unless they were very small LED-type clusters.
    • I’ve just installed a Uniclutch sport into my R32. I’ve been blown away by it… it drives like a stock Toyota Corolla. It doesn’t make sense to me that a performance clutch can drive this well. I was about to pull the trigger on a Nismo Coppermix twin plate when I discovered the Uniclutch and decided to give that a shot instead. They’ve changed the game and I couldn’t be happier.    I was previously using an Extreme cushioned button clutch with lightened flywheel. I’m still using the same lightened flywheel with the Uniclutch.
    • Mmmm no, that's a white series 2 R33 GTS-t
    • Oh and.... "no bubble on the dash" ---> immediate no mod status.
×
×
  • Create New...