Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's a wonderful thing to see that this is finally being publicized. Now hopefully with greater public awareness the public will know the right avenues to get their vehicles from or the right avenues to get their vehicles checked. :)

* there'll be kids not having to flush their life savings down the toilet through rose coloured glasses

* there'll be more accurate grey import values on the 2nd hand car market

* the value of the grey import car you sell will be justified

* more paperwork will be available to justify trust

Old mate the reporter should get his facts clear.

The whole 5 year business with registration being expensive is a load of crap.

2 year rego for a used vehicle and around $1,000 if you get a workshop to do it for you. Just did my rental van for my rental house in the snow and saved a few man ($) and it's 13 years old. Yearly road tax has to be paid and amount depends on type of vehicle but for a skyline it's around the 40,000yen per year.

Most winding back is done by the dealers in Oz,Nz etc but does happen in Japan( mainly foreign dealers of certain ethnicity, sending cars to Russia, Dubai,India, Pakistan etc and also dealing in stolen cars) but the majority of wind backs coming into oz is the dodgey Aussie dealers.

  • Like 1

The kms arent being wound back in Japan. The auctions arent just for foreign markets, they are for local markets. If Japanese change the kms, and put the car back up for auction, it will easily be seen from the de-registration papers that the car kms are not correct. The kms are being changed somewhere after purchasing at the buyers request.

I disagree about the log book thing. These could easily go missing in the transit to Aus. Just make sure the seller is open and happy to provide de-registration certificate and the auction sheet.

Edited by BigWillieStyles

Km's do get wound back in the local Japanese market and have seen it done myself and domestic paperwork fudged. Trust me, if you know the right people in Japan, anything is possible.

There's a few Japnaese guys on Yahoo Japan that offer the service to send your dash gauge and have it set to whatever your heart desires.

Thing is this a small percentage and in reality has bugger all to do with the vehicles being shipped o/seas. It's the mongrel dodgey dealers/exporters that to the dodge and then bullshit "I know nothing about that".

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Good to see this sort of stuff is starting to get more focus. When I was looking for a car I found numerous examples of R34 GTR's, freshly imported and being sold by dealers that had wound back odometers. It was very simple to track the car to the auction sheet and see the original km's. Just astounding that Fair Trading turn a blind eye to this.

  • 3 months later...

Ones of those shops in Parramatta Road had a RZ fd rx7 for sale with 58,000km. The auction sheet sourced when it went through auction suggests differently with more than double the km. It disappeared from carsales for a while, then pops back up again today advertised as 66,000km.

I think that answers the discussion we had earlier in this thread about where the km's are being changed!

See here ----> http://www.fdrx7.com/forum/showthread.php?p=143434&posted=1#post143434

Edited by BigWillieStyles
  • 6 months later...
  • 1 year later...

4+ plaintiffs have to share $1 remaining in Phil Lee's account.

Phil has been using blocking manoeuvres which still lead to liquidation; but he seems to have protected his money...

Phil's quote of the day, "I'm not a bad person".

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Did someone mention Edward Lee ? Police raid Edward Lees and three other importers for odo tampering. About bloody time too !

https://www.facebook.com/PrestigeMotorsportAust/videos/1107318409290351/

Coordinated police raids on a number of Sydney dealerships two days ago have resulted in one dealership, "Dream Car City", having its trading immediately suspended.

Prestige Auto Centre, Edward Lees Imports and Master Cars at Blacktown were also raided.

Those three businesses are accused of digitally altering odometers on at least 100 vehicles imported from Japan and will have to show Fair Trading NSW why they should not be disciplined.

Fair Trading NSW have been investigating the dealers for two years, following a tip-off from a consumer who was concerned about their vehicle’s wear and tear, and information from police.

A number of people are expected to be prosecuted by NSW Police and Fair Trading NSW in connection with the ongoing investigation.

Fines up to $20,000 are in place for odometer tampering, while those who knowingly sell or attempt to sell a tampered vehicle face up to 10 years jail.

We feel this action is long overdue and many dealers in other States should heed this warning. Not only does this illegal behaviour hurt the consumer but it damages the reputation of the industry. It also makes it difficult for businesses like ours that only source genuine vehicles and provide all original paperwork including deregistration paper / export certificate.

Some news articles have claimed that deregistration documents detailing registration and km history are not readily available from Japan, however this is not true. For some years now, online services have been providing this document by email usually within 7 days, for as little as $50.

We recommend everyone considering buying a Japanese import locally, to obtain a copy of this document independently for their own peace of mind.

For those wanting the extra control of sourcing their own vehicle, we recommend using only an industry-recognised and licensed vehicle import agent. With a simple low fixed fee per vehicle, there is simply no conflict of interest in supplying the best quality, genuine km vehicles.

We would like to see the upcoming changes to the import regulations require independent odometer inspections prior to import, with the results included on a publicly available database linked to each vehicle's chassis number. That way anyone could quickly and easily access this information as part of their pre-purchase checks.

The new import scheme from 2018 must be entirely transparent with independent quality checking to eliminate conflicts of interest, protect the consumer, and ensure only the best cars are imported to Australia.

  • 9 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...