Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I think the best bet is to get it high flowed (steel wheels) and then you wont have to worry. Run stock boost no issue

Then when you want more power just get the supporting mods and wind the boost up. Cheaper than constantly buying replacement stock turbos

I know its not really solving the original problem. But still a good idea

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi Stao.....read my post. There are ways it could happen. Anything that causes that signal to be lower (where it is sourced from) than the turbo's outlet pressure will permit it to work too hard.

Maybe....but what happens when you have that is that the turbo spins up and gets hot, then the bearings gall and sieze and the sudden shock would be what shakes the turbine loose. But I wouldn't expect the shaft to spin nicely afterwards, and it sounds like yours still have been.

The rear wheel doesn't spin after they blow up, all 3 turbos the rear wheel has been f**ked and the front wheel still spins!! One of the turbos found some of the rear wheel in my exhaust (cat)

Okay thanks for that input guys, if a steel wheel turbo is what's going to fix this problem looks like that's what I'm gonna do, I'm also going to check the oil flow but other then that it's got me stumped. So if anyone could recommend someone who does decent turbo rebuilds that would be greatly appreciated as is all of your input! Thanks

Check out the latest results from our current 21U std R33 high flowed turbocharger on the last few pages. They are capable of doing factory alike response of 260rwkws+ on P98 and have done 320rwkws with E85. Cost only $850 now with oil line, and that has been welly track proven.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/

Okay thanks for that input guys, if a steel wheel turbo is what's going to fix this problem looks like that's what I'm gonna do, I'm also going to check the oil flow but other then that it's got me stumped. So if anyone could recommend someone who does decent turbo rebuilds that would be greatly appreciated as is all of your input! Thanks

yeah just go with hypergear, the new 21U profile is pretty damn good. someone made over 320 kw on e85 with it which is amazing for the stock r33 turbo housings. other than that it performs well as a stock replacement with a bit more oomph. responsiveness is about the same as a stockker because the stockers are just old now anyway.

edit: forgot to mention its cheaper than the competition too

Edited by Blackkers

The rear wheel doesn't spin after they blow up, all 3 turbos the rear wheel has been f**ked and the front wheel still spins!! One of the turbos found some of the rear wheel in my exhaust (cat)

The wheels live on a common shaft. If the comp wheel will spin, then the shaft is free to turn, and if the turbine was still there (which it's not because it's dead) it would then still spin too.

Thanks for all your help everyone, it was a block in the oil line! It's been fixed and I put a steel wheel turbo on the car aswell

Good work finding it. For our benefit how did you find it? by checking flow out of turbo drain first, or just whipping off oil feed line?

Good work finding it. For our benefit how did you find it? by checking flow out of turbo drain first, or just whipping off oil feed line?

I unbolted the oil line from the turbo put a bucket underneath and started the car to check flow and there was little to none (it would have been messy if there was) I got a braided line and done the same thing and I got a few hundred ml in seconds. So not sure how or why but the line was blocked or something.. New turbo has been on for a solid 24 hours, feels and sounds a lot better already. Very relieved so far!

The line is blocked by the banjo bolt into the block usually. They have a .9mm restrictor built in don't they?

The VQ does anyway, it actually runs 3 restrictors due to high oil pressure.

I unbolted the oil line from the turbo put a bucket underneath and started the car to check flow and there was little to none (it would have been messy if there was) I got a braided line and done the same thing and I got a few hundred ml in seconds. So not sure how or why but the line was blocked or something.. New turbo has been on for a solid 24 hours, feels and sounds a lot better already. Very relieved so far!

its an oil line that is 15-20 yrs old, and with the restrictors they have in them they will undoubtedly gather deposits and block over such a period of time.

you are sorted for boost and tune now :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...