Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fair enough. But no one had done the R & D that hypergear has and he makes everything in house. Still supporting an Australian business. Just not Brisbane.

Edited by pipster11

Buying a used RB25 turbo for the 31. Who rebuilds these things locally. Want a steel wheel on it and a decent rebuild?

Chris the most important part is the balancing. GCG although not local (Sydney) have a Schenck balancing machine that is one of the best. They are very good and price competitive.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DtpNHkHYRQ

So there is no one local that does this?

Aware of the balancing of these things. Given the speeds they see if they were out a fraction all hell would break loose.

Trying to support local business for a change.as most of you are aware I spend a lot of money overseas on bits for these things

Thought I would give local business a chance at it.

The harmonics on the CHRA assembly of a turbocharger would be only out balanced at certain shaft speed and then balances it self out in neutral, just like as if your front wheel is out of balance and that vibration goes away before and after certain speed.

So regardless of whom ever has what ever balancing equipment, as long as its accurate you can only balance it to a certain point. That does not determine who's high flow job performs better, last longer or provides the best $=HP value.

Any way. Some information for the OP to compare with.

Our high flow out of 21U R33 turbocharger makes 320rwkws on E85 internally gated on a bolton setup with 22psi reached by 3500RPMs. and been in 5th in World Time Attack Sprint class 2013.

atr28ssRB25233kw.jpg

This service is for $850 including braided oil line.

Out of interest.. what machine do you use?

We use Hiens dynamic balancing systems. never had issues with any turbochargers that we've balanced.

Get the balancing right is only a small section of the map. There is shaft tolerances, clearances, machining tolerances of the housings, bearing housings, bearing housing bore, fluid dynamics in side the bearing housing, wheel materials, wheels sizes, blade profiles, waste gate assembly and more. Now high flowing factory turbocharger to suit a specific engine requires lots of knowledge and experiences working with that engine, to understand how the customized profile behaves in terms of generating power, boost and efficiency range with limitation of stock housings, in which we've spent lot of time on.

Having a reliable balancing machine can only result a well balanced shaft assembly. Once all criteria mentioned above meets, you have a good turbocharger. So the best way of making better choices is by comparing results.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...