Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Almost had a great day installing my coilovers until...

post-62143-0-84849900-1385637897_thumb.jpg

Snapped that bolt holding the bottom end of the coilover. It is on the passenger side and it has a few threads left.

I took the nut from the drivers side and put it on the few threads left on the passenger side.

Used some spare nut i had lying around for the drivers side as it was less fussy.

I took her for a drive and all was ok but i really want to get this fixed tomorrow morning!

Anyone know the name of the arm, or whatever it is, that has the bolt sticking out of it so i can replace the whole thing?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435668-broke-a-bolt-installing-coilovers/
Share on other sites

I did something similar fairly recently. You just need to replace the front left, by the looks of it, upright. Big bolt at the top with the upper control arm, big nut under the black metal cap that holds the whole hub/wheel assembly.

Here you go - http://m.ebay.com.au/itm?itemId=360426677294

I sourced a local one that was a fair bit cheaper then that.

Yeah i had a more in depth look after i posted that, found it to be the front control arm, or front upright as you called it.

I am looking in the parts section for one now, will call wreckers tomorrow morning and if i cant find one i'll search on ebay.

Was so close to enjoying the Ohlins :(.

Thanks for the help man, did you replace the upright yourself? Just two nuts aye, sounds simple.

Control arm and upright are not same thing. There is an upper control arm, and a lower control arm, and the upright runs (vertically) between the outer ends of each of those arms. You don't want a control arm, you want an upright.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 1

Thanks for the help man, did you replace the upright yourself? Just two nuts aye, sounds simple.

Yeah I did it myself. You will have to do undo the bracket that holds the brake line aswell if I remember correctly, but yeah it's not a hard job

Control arm and upright are not same thing. There is an upper control arm, and a lower control arm, and the upright runs (vertically) between the outer ends of each of those arms. You don't want a control arm, you want an upright.

Got ya, thanks mate.

Alright i'll go grab one now and see how it goes. Is $80 a fair price for this piece?

Problem solved. Bought the upright for $80 and had it installed by Tims Performance on Sunnyholt road for $30, fair price as i did not want to undo everything again. I'll let him install the rears as well!

Lovin the front coilovers already.

Cheers guys.

Problem solved. Bought the upright for $80 and had it installed by Tims Performance on Sunnyholt road for $30, fair price as i did not want to undo everything again. I'll let him install the rears as well!

 

Lovin the front coilovers already.

 

Cheers guys.

Wise move, sometimes it's a good idea to let pro's do the installing. Good to give some things a try though :)

Just an update.

Have had the Ohlins PCV coilovers installed for a few days now and my what a difference they have made! Its a whole new car because of them.

Front shocks are 15/30 clicks rears i think theyre on 7/30 clicks from soft, they don't send shocks up your spine, they do allow your car to feel as if it is on rails, until you understeer.

I know coilovers are not meant for eliminating body roll, but these definitely reduced the roll in a major way. Coupled with the GTR seats i have installed, this is a killer combination which i would recommend to anyone!

It almost feels like your at time zone drivin a car in those simulators. I just want a set of sway bars to complete the package.

The best money ive spent on the car so far.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...