Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 at sandown on the 13/6?

FLYGTR

By FLYGTR,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Looking at those times, anything under a 1:30 is quick, is that a fair comment.

As an idicator, what would be a good lap time for a well driven std tubo and basic susp upgrade R33 GTST with Type R rubber and no speed limiter around Sandown...also Winton if anyone knows

FLYGTR Contributor

FLYGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I would agree that anything under 1.30 would be a decent car with a competent driver . As a guide the quickest standard class WRX ( use of azenis tyres allowed) ran in the 1.30's and the driver of this vehicle is very quick. I would hope/expect that a well driven GTS r33 would/should be able to match these times. The R33 was well off the pace that day so most likely had some mechanical dramas.

adam

Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
Posted

When I first went to Sandown I was told that anything under 1.30 was fast. I know at Phillip Island the time to get is anything under 2.00. NFI about Winton yet.

I know Donald ran 1.24's at Sandown in a 200sx which only has suspension and brake mods (and a big wang) on the weekend. Thats impressive.

whistla Proficient

whistla

Posted
Posted

Ah yes...that R33 was me

It was my first time on a track let alone Sandown all together, so no need to judge or speculate on my times

I didnt really attend this track day to go all out and cut some times or break records, more so just want to enjoy a bit of a fang on a track

So i was pretty suprised that i actually got a 1:39 on that day, as at no stage was i REALLY pushing the cars nor my own limits

Near the end of the day i realised there were a couple of corners i could have carried alot more speed in but by this time had a couple of problems

1. my inner wheel plastic arches decided to rip off, so i pulled off the track after the practice lap to take them off

2. on the last session, people reported seeing burnt oil out the back of the car, and i was loosing boost pressure

Anyway, its not good...cylinder 2 is down to 70psi compression :D

Taking the head off this week to fear the wrost

itll be good to see MORE people with R33 gtsts on a track, instead of being street heros

come on guys! its VERY addictive and cant wait to get the engine prepped up for more

Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
Posted

Good to see the latest speed junkie join the ranks!

Hey maybe we should have some group theapy sessions or something?

"Hi my name is Snowman and Im addicted to track days. I had my first hit in Feburary and at the time I was just doing it for a bit of fun. But now if I don't get that speed hit that only the Track can offer I start to shake. I've tried burning a few HSV's at the lights but the hit just isn't the same. But I find comfort in knowing there is others like me out there."

FLYGTR Contributor

FLYGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

whistla , wasnt having a go about the times i realised you where a novice with a car not running right. Im guessing you are a member of PIARC or similiar? , its always good to see other makes of car besides WRX's ( i had the RS in the avater) but i usually race a VL 5ltr (spun bearing atm) at all the rex events as they are very well run and organised . I was planning to come up and say hi but had a few things on the day to do .

adam

whistla Proficient

whistla

Posted
Posted

Nah thats cool

The car was running fine untill the last session...

I just wasnt full throttling on the straights during the start of the day as i was still getting the feel of the whole thing and letting people pass me. i didnt want to be pushed into the corners and prefer to tail people than be tailed

My confidenced gain near the end and really cant wait to get back on the track...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...