Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Often wondered how hard it would be for a tech minded person to simply copy a nismo or impul chip put it on a blank chip and do it that way much like copying an iso image of a movie or computer program.

No-one will spend the time and money on development of a daughter board, but there is another simple option. Just get the Nismo flash off it's processor and dump it into a stock one. Theoretically the Consult 3 can do it, but I am yet to try.

Yeah fair enough.. was thinking tho if our problem is the oem ecu being kept happy, having something intercept the outgoing signal (to modify) and having a closed loop or oem signal returned would be the case in solving some of our problems (which I assumed a daughter board could be of benefit) literally something running the parameters of what the oem ecu should be seeing. Maps etc. (Almost like an safc or crome for honda? ) mind my ignorance

Edited by Reaperblitz
  • 1 month later...

Bumping this thread as my M35 should be ready for tuning very soon.

Currently stock ECU with Emanage piggy backed making just over 240+kw on pump 98.

The car will soon, hopefully, still have the same mods / tune however the auto will be missing (manual yay!)

I assume error codes will appear due to no auto and i do wonder how drivable the car will be with said error codes if at all. If anything it will be an interesting day.

I'm still unsure what path to take to get the car tuned and running fine with the manual in place...

Thoughts?

I wondered how the blokes using Link units are travelling with their tuning.

Cheers

  • Like 1

The going is slow with the Link at this stage, getting tuners off their arse can be difficult at the best of times. :P

The plugin loom is all finished and looks the goods, it was a lot more work than I thought though Beau.

  • Like 1

Cheers for the info Scotty.

I'll let people know how i go starting the M35 once everything is bolted together. Hopefully the error codes wont prevent me driving it with the current set up.

Then I will have the luxury of more time to investigate a real tuning solution.

:)

  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone looked at using an EMTRON? They're powerful and can control a heap of stuff, cams, quad DBW throttles and more. They obviously aren't cheap but are well priced for the performance etc they provide. It won't control the auto box but may be a good solution for the engine?

https://www.emtronaustralia.com.au

Also what makes the NISMO ECU better than the stock? I read before that you can ditch the fuel cut and rev cut, anything else?

No throttle delay/restriction.

Worth it; for that ALONE.

As in you wouldn't need the brake cut mod? Or something I've missed?

Brake cut mod is still useful, but the throttle response is much more aggressive and linear.

What you put in at the pedal; you receive instantly at the TB; not a version of it; some days/weeks later...

Ahhhh yea. Lots of DBW cars suffer similarly, you can normally get a little box that plugs in under the accelerator pedal and must alter the signal to ECU/TB. Helps heaps with that and has multiple settings as to how aggressive/sensitive you want it. I think it has an "economy" setting too that must do the opposite and make it less sensitive/aggressive.

Ahhhh yea. Lots of DBW cars suffer similarly, you can normally get a little box that plugs in under the accelerator pedal and must alter the signal to ECU/TB. Helps heaps with that and has multiple settings as to how aggressive/sensitive you want it. I think it has an "economy" setting too that must do the opposite and make it less sensitive/aggressive.

The problem is; the controllers can't actually open the throttle from a standstill any faster than standard, so all you get is a weird, jerky oversensitive throttle when you're cruising, with a shiteload of lag off mark...

Has anyone looked at using an EMTRON? They're powerful and can control a heap of stuff, cams, quad DBW throttles and more. They obviously aren't cheap but are well priced for the performance etc they provide. It won't control the auto box but may be a good solution for the engine?

https://www.emtronaustralia.com.au

Considering the price of the ecu is twice what I bought my last stagea for, and you can't actually buy one due to some exclusivity complex they have, I decided to ignore that particular ecu brand. I needed around the clock factory support which even Haltech couldn't give me, infact I am still waiting for a call back from their support line.

Link gave us what we were looking for, a brand new Fury 6 cylinder specific ecu with direct wideband, cvt cam control and the ability to run our M35 electronic throttle in a cheaper package than the other leading brands. Unfortunately it's out of the budget of most Stagea owners, but for those pushing the boundaries with power it should be the best option available, and other than the MAP/IAT and flex sensors it will plug straight in with the patch loom. Finally a better ecu than the Fcon for standalone control.

  • Like 3

Very impressive result for a first start and an untuned drive. Well done guys! Have you fully disconnected the standard ECU from Ricks car now?

No, the stock ecu must remain in place. Rick and I have set the Fury up to run in parallel with the stock ecu, which is still running the cams and throttle. Seems to work well with no errors at this stage. Still a long way to go before removing the stock ecu will be possible, most likely we would need to ditch the auto before going full standalone.

  • Like 1

I'm quickly losing hope that my M35 will be drivable for the xmas break :(

More effort will be made to try and get it running with the 350z manual in place and just tricking the stock ECU that it's an auto box is in neutral...

I'll be there tomorrow afternoon so i will try and take some pictures as i didn't get a chance last weekend :)

I have a feeling once the chaos of xmas is over i'll be asking Scotty and Rick a tonne of questions :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...