Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My central locking has progressively been getting worse over the past few months. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Now it's gotten to the point where it never works. My headlights still flash as it arms and disarms the alarm, and my boot still opens consistently.

I thought it was the battery in the key fob, but I changed it, and apparently not. Some guy at Battery World tested my car battery, and said it needed recharging, that my short trips to work and back were draining the battery. This sounds plausible, except that I have no issue starting my car. Surely starting the car uses more battery power than unlocking and locking the doors? Or are our cars so smart that it diverts power that even when the battery is so low that the central locking doesn't work, that you can still start the car? I bought a low power battery charger, and after 12 hours of charging, still no luck. But then again it might take a few days of charging to be full.

Did I get ripped off? Does the central locking go before the ability to start the car does?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435914-low-car-battery-and-central-locking/
Share on other sites

Gah that's exactly what I was hoping it's not.

Lots of threads talking about replacing them yourself in this forum, but that's a no go for me. Any idea of what something like that costs at a mechanic?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No updates on the car but figured I'd share a nice outing. All the recent work paid off and I got it all together and out the shed for a car based pre-wedding celebration for a good mate of mine. Pretty casual cruise through the hills to a pub for lunch then out for some go-karting at The Bend. Headed down to Myponga for the night We stopped in at the reservoir before heading out down to the coast for lunch via the dam  By the end of the weekend away I covered 350km and the 32 generally behaved its self. A good Shake down after being apart before the Track day in a few weeks  
    • The front prop shaft from my GTR had very notchy unis, which obviously needed replacement but unfortunately uses the (usually) non-replaceable (staked) type.     A new shaft is something like $2K plus shipping from Japan.   I wouldn't even bother asking the local Nissan spares dept.     Rang Hardy Spicer but no go, which surprised me a little.     There's a place over Dandenong way that would make me a 'performance' shaft but un-necessary in my situation.   They claimed to be getting the equipment in to replace staked unis but couldn't give me a timeframe.   Anyway, long story short, found a place to do the work just 5 mins from me: https://knoxdriveshafts.com.au $420 (cash) and about a week later I have my driveshaft back.   Price includes balancing. Owner is a one man band working out of a shed in his backyard but from what I could see he's very well setup with some expensive equipment.  
    • Thanks. That's what I was after. One of the kits, the o-ring side is too big diameter. The other kit is a plate with a o-ring to seal and the hose connection offset.
    • oops that seems much easier lol. 
    • Are you using the factory rail?  Is there any reason you don't want to use one of the two you already have, they don't have to attach to the fuel rail directly.  If you 100% must have a FPR that directly bolts to the fuel rail, you could get a Radium setup. I use a radium fuel rail and the direct mount regulator, it is quite a sexy setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...