Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Leak From The Rb Motors

satie12

By satie12,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

satie12 Newbie

satie12

Posted
Posted

hey guys, i know all the RB motors have the slight boost leak from the back of the rocker covers from the gasket, just wondering how you would get rid of it? could you drop a front mount cooler in and that will eliminate the boost leak?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436079-boost-leak-from-the-rb-motors/
Share on other sites
StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

hey guys, i know all the RB motors have the slight boost leak from the back of the rocker covers from the gasket, just wondering how you would get rid of it? could you drop a front mount cooler in and

that will eliminate the boost leak?

Erm. . What?

kawasakirider Grand Master

kawasakirider

Posted
Posted

To eliminate boost leaks you need to eliminate the chance of boost being forced out of the areas that inevitably leak, such as your rocker cover gasket (very prone to boost leaks these little bastards).

The problem lies in the intercooler itself, despite what you may think, the intercooler actually exacerbates your cam cover boost leak mate. When the intercooler fills up with boost, it enters the engine but because there is still an entire intercooler filled with boost, where do you think the excess boost goes? Exactly. Right out the cam cover and into the atmosphere.

To stop this, you simply get rid of the intercooler(s). Leave the intercoolers for the N/A cars, they're good for absolutely nothing on a turbocharged vehicle. By getting rid of your intercooler you have less lag and less built up pressure to to wreak havoc on those poorly designed cam covers.

So go to autobarn or repco, or even chop your neighbours kids' trampoline up and make some turbo piping. Route the piping from the turbo straight to the throttle body. Less lag, less pressure on your cam covers, more customz, more bitches.

Simple as that.

  • Like 3
533 RYC Proficient

533 RYC

Posted
Posted

You all don't know what your on about. The BIGGEST boost leak on an RB is from the little black round container behind the LEFT headlight, the charcoal canister. While eliminating the intercooler will fix the cam cover leak, eliminating the charcoal canister will stop the over fuelling.

You see, when the turbo comes on (boost leaks from the cam covers at this point), boost pushes through the charcoal canister (which filters the boost & mixes with fuel vapour) through to your fuel tank to pressurize it, which makes the turbo REALLY REALLY laggy.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

Also sends turbo pressure to the fuel tank to push fuel into the engine on boost as the fuel pump alone isn't enough.

Thanks why on some cars you get a WHOOOSH noise when you open the fuel cap.

SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
Posted

Also sends turbo pressure to the fuel tank to push fuel into the engine on boost as the fuel pump alone isn't enough.

Thanks why on some cars you get a WHOOOSH noise when you open the fuel cap.

Ahhhh my car doesn't go whoosh, does that mean I need to mount a turbo in the boot just for the petrol tank?

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Also sends turbo pressure to the fuel tank to push fuel into the engine on boost as the fuel pump alone isn't enough.

Thanks why on some cars you get a WHOOOSH noise when you open the fuel cap.

I must be doing it wrong because mine doesn't do this. Does this mean I need a new engine?

I was thinking of upgrading from the RB25 to one of those SR20's anways

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

You all don't know what your on about. The BIGGEST boost leak on an RB is from the little black round container behind the LEFT headlight, the charcoal canister. While eliminating the intercooler will fix the cam cover leak, eliminating the charcoal canister will stop the over fuelling.

You see, when the turbo comes on (boost leaks from the cam covers at this point), boost pushes through the charcoal canister (which filters the boost & mixes with fuel vapour) through to your fuel tank to pressurize it, which makes the turbo REALLY REALLY laggy.

dafaq?

You know on the charcoal canister there's a valve that stops pressure from going into the canister when there's +ve pressure on the manifold.

Fuel tank is not pressurised on boost, who the hell told you this?

533 RYC Proficient

533 RYC

Posted
Posted

dafaq?

You know on the charcoal canister there's a valve that stops pressure from going into the canister when there's +ve pressure on the manifold.

Fuel tank is not pressurised on boost, who the hell told you this?

:domokun:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...