Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Leak From The Rb Motors

satie12

By satie12,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

satie12 Newbie

satie12

Posted
Posted

hey guys, i know all the RB motors have the slight boost leak from the back of the rocker covers from the gasket, just wondering how you would get rid of it? could you drop a front mount cooler in and that will eliminate the boost leak?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436079-boost-leak-from-the-rb-motors/
Share on other sites
StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

hey guys, i know all the RB motors have the slight boost leak from the back of the rocker covers from the gasket, just wondering how you would get rid of it? could you drop a front mount cooler in and

that will eliminate the boost leak?

Erm. . What?

kawasakirider Grand Master

kawasakirider

Posted
Posted

To eliminate boost leaks you need to eliminate the chance of boost being forced out of the areas that inevitably leak, such as your rocker cover gasket (very prone to boost leaks these little bastards).

The problem lies in the intercooler itself, despite what you may think, the intercooler actually exacerbates your cam cover boost leak mate. When the intercooler fills up with boost, it enters the engine but because there is still an entire intercooler filled with boost, where do you think the excess boost goes? Exactly. Right out the cam cover and into the atmosphere.

To stop this, you simply get rid of the intercooler(s). Leave the intercoolers for the N/A cars, they're good for absolutely nothing on a turbocharged vehicle. By getting rid of your intercooler you have less lag and less built up pressure to to wreak havoc on those poorly designed cam covers.

So go to autobarn or repco, or even chop your neighbours kids' trampoline up and make some turbo piping. Route the piping from the turbo straight to the throttle body. Less lag, less pressure on your cam covers, more customz, more bitches.

Simple as that.

  • Like 3
533 RYC Proficient

533 RYC

Posted
Posted

You all don't know what your on about. The BIGGEST boost leak on an RB is from the little black round container behind the LEFT headlight, the charcoal canister. While eliminating the intercooler will fix the cam cover leak, eliminating the charcoal canister will stop the over fuelling.

You see, when the turbo comes on (boost leaks from the cam covers at this point), boost pushes through the charcoal canister (which filters the boost & mixes with fuel vapour) through to your fuel tank to pressurize it, which makes the turbo REALLY REALLY laggy.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

Also sends turbo pressure to the fuel tank to push fuel into the engine on boost as the fuel pump alone isn't enough.

Thanks why on some cars you get a WHOOOSH noise when you open the fuel cap.

SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
Posted

Also sends turbo pressure to the fuel tank to push fuel into the engine on boost as the fuel pump alone isn't enough.

Thanks why on some cars you get a WHOOOSH noise when you open the fuel cap.

Ahhhh my car doesn't go whoosh, does that mean I need to mount a turbo in the boot just for the petrol tank?

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Also sends turbo pressure to the fuel tank to push fuel into the engine on boost as the fuel pump alone isn't enough.

Thanks why on some cars you get a WHOOOSH noise when you open the fuel cap.

I must be doing it wrong because mine doesn't do this. Does this mean I need a new engine?

I was thinking of upgrading from the RB25 to one of those SR20's anways

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

You all don't know what your on about. The BIGGEST boost leak on an RB is from the little black round container behind the LEFT headlight, the charcoal canister. While eliminating the intercooler will fix the cam cover leak, eliminating the charcoal canister will stop the over fuelling.

You see, when the turbo comes on (boost leaks from the cam covers at this point), boost pushes through the charcoal canister (which filters the boost & mixes with fuel vapour) through to your fuel tank to pressurize it, which makes the turbo REALLY REALLY laggy.

dafaq?

You know on the charcoal canister there's a valve that stops pressure from going into the canister when there's +ve pressure on the manifold.

Fuel tank is not pressurised on boost, who the hell told you this?

533 RYC Proficient

533 RYC

Posted
Posted

dafaq?

You know on the charcoal canister there's a valve that stops pressure from going into the canister when there's +ve pressure on the manifold.

Fuel tank is not pressurised on boost, who the hell told you this?

:domokun:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...